figured i'd update everyone on the progress for this build. we had to take a break while i had some things going on the past few weeks. next is big 3 wiring with a new optima red top battery. then closed cell foam on interior rear panels so we can get the amp rack mounted.

 

any more updates?

and I just noticed on the first page, you never fully sealed your doors.

 

some updates have been made in other forums, but as for sealing up the door openings - not yet, we both ended up being quite busy. we have sheet metal that we will deaden and screw to the door to seal up the openings. it will be updated soon.

 

battery replacement, grounding for the big 3, fuse holder mounting



factory grounds - under battery and just below the starter


green tape identifies an empty threaded M10 - 1.5 location for a engine block ground


chassis ground to frame just under battery


Grade 8 bolts used for grounding


paint sanded away



working on power wire fuse - Streetwires 1/0


I like Streetwires fuse holders


i made a custom bracket for the fuse holder






grounds getting marine grade ring terminals, heat shrink, then split loom




finished

 

while i was doing the engine bay, the owner was applying closed cell foam to the rear interior panels - all contact points.







every interior panel will get foam treatment - this itself will be a long process.

 

i wasn't going to show the full build long on HAF since it's a Scion - but since the process itself is identical to any Honda - it is a nice build log to share that doesn't compromise the vehicle like mine does.

 

Here is some deadening i did last night on my 2001 Accord sedan:
So as a result of some recent "changes" that I will describe later, i've decided to run door midbass until I build the FG door pods. which, due to winter, won't be started until late spring 2011.

but first, I needed to actually seal up the door this time. before i just had some "thinmat" around the speaker that just simply pealed off (apparently roofing material doesn't stick in the cold).

I used Raammat BXT since i had about 50 sq. ft. of note, having used this and BXT II, there is a HUGE advantage to the BXT II. BXT II is better in every way.

today i'll make a new speaker baffle and move on to the next door.

cleaned and ready, i used a mild mix of oxy clean and some nitrile gloves to clean all metal surfaces.


started with about 8 sq. ft. on the inside of the door cavity


multiple layers in the middle of the door


then i moved to the inner skin


for the large opening i had a few options. option 1 is to make a fiberglass cover, option 2 is to make a sheet metal cover, option 3 is to make due with materials you have on hand. i chose option 3 since it was around midnight.

i used some thin board and made sure to have deadening on both sides. in this case, i ran a piece on the inside that overlapped the metal on each side of the opening, then used gorilla glue to hold the board to the deadening/metal around the opening, then covered with a few layers of deadener.


i repeated the process


mostly finished, i did some trimming along the outer edges





funny how i noticed i missed an area with this angle, i'll probably cover it today.

In all, I used 16 sq. ft. of Raammat BXT on this door - for complete coverage and sealing. So for planning purposes - 20 sq. ft. for each front door will also let you coat the speaker baffle and add a few more layers around and behind the speaker.

 

2001 Accord Sedan - some recent rear door deadening for road noise reduction (sealing door). each door took about 20 minutes. I used Raammat BXT on them.

driver side





split loom to let cables pass through

 

so, replacing front stock speakers in your accord...

factory comparison with a late 90's Massive Audio CD6 woofer






some tools required - a jig saw and drill are essential.


i find that the holes you cut in sub boxes can be reused for door speakers. here we have 3/4" MDF.

start by tracing the factory speaker mount, then superimpose the new speaker basket outline. determine the outer boundaries of the new mount - making sure you leave ample room for at least four bolts. then mark your driver cut-out in the center - i used the factory cardboard that held the driver for shipping as my template.

secure the wood so you can make your cuts


drill a hole on the inside of the center cut out, and on the outside of any sharp corners


always cut the center out first so you can easily secure the overall piece of wood


test fit your driver

 

finish cutting out the rest




drill out your mounting holes (driver and baffle) and use t-nuts or hurricane nuts for driver mounting. MDF doesn't work well with standard wood screws.


test fit your piece and use tape to help align the mount. mark your mounting holes so you have a clean cut you need to remove deadener BEFORE you drill - as it makes a mess. use brake-cleen or gasoline to remove deadener from the drill bit.



test fit the piece - if it's good then secure with bolts. in this case, i am using 1-1/2" 8-32 bolts with a nut and washer inside the door. you tighten with a screw driver and socket driver.


start by working a layer of deadener around the inside seam where the baffle meets the door


once it is secure, you can deaden over this piece to ensure it is water proof.