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2000 Distributor questions

  #1  
Old 07-17-2015, 06:21 PM
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Default 2000 Distributor questions

I posted the below comments at honda-tech.com, but no one seems to be answering me, so I'll post them here in hopes of getting SOME help.

Ok, so I was getting CEL code 9 every so often from time to time.

Over the last 6-8 weeks, I was getting a misfire at startup for a little bit, maybe first 20-30 seconds on a single cylinder, it seemed. Well, about 2-3 weeks ago, the miss was getting worse, maybe missing on 2 cylinders.

So, on Tuesday morning, car would not start on my way into work. No big deal, jumped in our backup car and went.

Came back in the afternoon, still would not catch on. Checked my codes, the 9 popped back up, and also 71-74 (Cylinder misfires).

So, I went through my diagnostic book (I have the factory book on my laptop) and it says this...

DTC P1381: CYP SENSOR INTERMITTENT INTERRUPTION.

1. Reset the ECM/PCM

2. Start the engine. Is DTC P1381 indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at the distributor and the ECM/PCM.

3. Check for poor connections at the ignition (spark plug) wires. Are the wires OK?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Correct as necessary.

4. Check the condition of the ignition wires. Are the wires OK?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Replace the ignition wires.

5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

6. Disconnect the distributor 4P connector.

7. For the F23A1 or F23A4 engine, measure resistance between distributor 4P connector terminals No. 3 and No. 4. For the F23A5 engine, measure resistance between the distributor 4P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 4.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automo...00Accord_1.jpg



Is there 800-1,500 ohm?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the ignition distributor housing.

8. For the F23A1 or F23A4 engine, check for continuity between body ground and the distributor connector terminals No. 3 and No. 4 individually. For the F23A5 engine, check for continuity between body ground and the distributor connector terminals No. 2 and No. 4 individually.
Is there continuity?
YES - Replace the ignition distributor housing.
NO - Go to step 9.

9. Reconnect the distributor 4P connector.

10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector C (31P).

11. Measure resistance between ECM/PCM connector terminals C29 and C30.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automo...00Accord_1.jpg



Is there 800-1,500 ohm?
YES - Go to step 12.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (C29, C30) and the distributor.

12. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal C29.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (C29) and the distributor.
NO - Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.

I get to step #7, and I try to check the resistance across pin 3+4 and I get like 100 ohms. So, I figure that the CYP sensor is shot. I went down to the parts store to get a new distributor today, and I brought my multi-meter on a hunch, and checked the resistance on 3+4 on the new one before I bought it, and I was getting .903 consistently.

So, my question is, how can I tell what's going on?

I'm almost positive I need a distributor, but I don't want to shell out $250 for a part I may not need.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Post #2

Ok,

So, I grabbed my neighbor, and I did a spark check. Unplugged #1 cylinder, placed end of wire near the exhaust manifold, and I'm getting spark.

Would I still get spark if the CYP sensor were bad, indicating a need for a new Distributor?

On my multi-meter I'm getting a reading of 96.7kΩ on pins 3+4 of the distributor. In my understanding, that means 96700Ω... Sounds a bit high. When I was checking the one at the parts store it was .903kΩ which would be 903Ω, correct?

So, would the CYP sensor being bad cause my car not to start at all?

Further... I cleared the codes on the ECM, and I'm not getting the 9 after cranking the motor for a while, and I'm not getting the misfires either. After cranking the motor for a while I am smelling gasoline, so I know it's getting gas, and after some diagnostics yesterday I pulled the plugs to make sure they weren't fouled (even though I just changed them 2-3 weeks ago) and they were wet with gasoline.

I'm so lost, and would really appreciate some help. Thanks.

Post #3

Sorry, one more quick thing.

I have the exact same issue that this guy was having...

Intermittent Rough Idle on Initial (Cold) Start/CEL P1381 - Honda Civic Forum

Unfortunately there seems to be no resolution to his issue.
 
  #2  
Old 07-18-2015, 07:33 AM
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I'll assume this is a 4 cyl.....the 00 v6 I think was COP.

Any chance of getting the OBD-II code, they are a bit better at narrowing down the testing.

The "scale" on your meter could be throwing you. Your "100" might be "1,000"? Hence the reading on a brand new one. I'd continue "down the tree" and see what the remaining tests show.
 
  #3  
Old 07-18-2015, 01:28 PM
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Yes, it's a 4 cylinder. I cleared the CEL's, and still just cold cranking with no kick.

So I bought a new dizzy, put it in, and......... NOTHING.

So, obviously not distributor. I put old one back on, checked spark on #1 cyl and I'm getting spark there. I checked voltage to fuel pump, and was only getting slightly more than 9v with car cranking. I'm not sure if that's from my battery running a little low though. I can kinda, sorta hear the pump click on when I turn the key on, it's almost like a very soft sound for the first couple of seconds after key going on. So, I'm assuming that it's initializing. I can smell gas under the hood after it's been cranking for a while. So, what am I missing?

I pulled open the Main Relay to check for broken/fried solder joints, but everything looked copacetic.

Anyone have anything?
 
  #4  
Old 07-19-2015, 05:25 AM
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Check for spark on all of the plugs.

Any chance you can get the OBD-II code? You say you have a code 9 (OBD-I) and then quote the P1381.
 
  #5  
Old 07-19-2015, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212 View Post
Check for spark on all of the plugs.

Any chance you can get the OBD-II code? You say you have a code 9 (OBD-I) and then quote the P1381.
CEL 9 is either P1381 or P1382 as per the factory service manual, P1381 is intermittent signal to the CYP sensor, and P1382 is no signal to the CYP sensor.

I cleared the codes though, and the code has not come back for all of my cranking, so I'm not sure if it's just unrelated. I will have to check for spark on all plugs later. I don't know if it jumped a tooth on 2 on the timing belt, I'm about ready to have the mechanic come tow it over to his place and take a look at it, but it's galling to my pride to have to resort to that.
 
  #6  
Old 07-23-2015, 06:54 AM
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Any new updates?
 
  #7  
Old 08-01-2015, 06:15 PM
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Ok, because I hate when people never give a conclusion to their ordeal, I'm going to post the remedy to the situation I had going on.

So, here's what happened...

I brought my car to a garage, after sitting there nearly all week, I went in this past Thursday and asked what was up. The guy didn't want to touch it because it had some electrical issues. :thud:

I convinced him, apart from the way the wiring harness looked, everything was running until it quit.

He hooked it up to the diagnostic computer on Friday, and looked at all the stored codes. He came back with a problem on the Main System Relay (gray box with brown plug on the left side of the steering column.)

So, I went down to Advance Auto and bought one. Their computer said it was an OE replacement part, whether or not, IDK. So, I took it over to the garage this morning and plugged it in. So, I said a short prayer, :scared: turned the key... and still no spark.

Well, I had been feeling all morning like I should go to the junkyard and grab some parts. I had been praying last night, and just felt like that might be where God was leading me to go. I got there, found a new plug for the temp sensor (previous one was all goobered up by previous owner) on one car, but no distributor or vtec.

I kept walking around, found a vtec solenoid on the next one. Previous owner must have changed out the vtec solenoid on the motor for one that didn't have the oil pressure sensor built in, so, since I was getting that CEL 22 for the vtec, I unbolted it. Please note, for removal/installation of vtec solenoid, it is easiest to remove the distributor and the air intake hose There are 3 - 10mm bolts which hold it on, 2 are visible from the passenger's side, 1 in the top, 1 in the bottom. They take a wrench and a lot of time, there's no way to get a ratcheting wrench on them, and there's very little room to work, so you have to move the wrench about 1/8th of a turn at a time. The 3rd bolt is on the other side of the solenoid, directly under the fuel rail wiring. The easiest way to get at this one is to disconnect the wiring harness from its two mounting posts and move it up and back toward the intake plenum. Stick your wrench down in there and start turning it 1/8th of a turn at a time.

Once you get that off, and before you put the new one on (if it's used) check the little screen in there, make sure it's not full of junk. If it is, use the corner of a rag to clean out the majority, and then blow off the screen with some compressed air. Installation is reverse of removal.

I didn't find a distributor on this vehicle, in fact, I despaired of finding one, as this pull yard is well stocked with parts hawks as I call them. People who just go out and pull hard to find parts to sell on e-bay, making the parts even harder to find for weekend warriors like myself.

I guess the Lord was really looking out for me today, because after a bit more walking, I ran across another Accord, and lo and behold, there was the treasure of all treasures for Honda motors! A DISTRIBUTOR!

I quickly yanked it off... 2 - 12mm bolts on the bottom left and right corners of the distributor. Please Note: Oil will come out of the cam shaft orifice where the distributor bolts up, have a towel ready, or your motor is gonna get oily. I took it and bolted it up to my Honda after putting the vtec and temp sensor wiring harness in.

I got in, started kicking it over, it started sounding like it wanted to come to life for the first time in weeks. I kept cranking... and cranking... and cranking... and IT'S ALIVE!

I started panicking in a couple minutes as white smoke started pouring out, but then I realized that I had taken the IAC sensor/solenoid off earlier in a diagnostic procedure to make sure it wasn't sticking. Well, apparently, having never done it before, I was not aware that you're supposed to take the coolant lines off PRIOR to unbolting the IAC from the back of the plenum. So my intake had some coolant laying in it, after a few minutes of white smoke, it cleared up, and car is running like a champ.

If anyone has any other questions regarding this, please feel free to contact me through the board with a PM, and I'll do my best to walk you through EVERYTHING that I did to diagnose the problem.

There's a lot that I didn't cover that I did to diagnose the issue. It is my belief that the actual problem was the distributor all along, and that the one that I bought from Advance Auto was an aftermarket and not OE, and would not work with my car, because non-Honda ignition parts are junk. DO NOT BUY THEM IF YOU CAN AVOID IT, and just because you put on a non-Honda replacement ignition part and your Honda does not start, does not mean the part you put on is good.

I am fully convinced that the aftermarket distributor was faulty.
 
  #8  
Old 08-02-2015, 05:36 AM
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Thanks for the follow up and glad you got it going again.
 
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