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93 accord turns off while driving then back on a few minutes later

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93 accord turns off while driving then back on a few minutes later

  #1  
Old 11-19-2014, 09:10 PM
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Default 93 accord turns off while driving then back on a few minutes later

Hey guys i have a bit of an issue...my 93 accord just got some work done..new valves and timing belt..after the work got done it was driving fine even dough i felt like it was struggleling a bit till 2 days afterwords i was on the highway doing about 70 mph and i took my exit...i was driving about 20 mph and the car shut off....i pulled to the side and put it neutral and it turned back on...i drove about 4 blocks and when i tried to speed up it hit 30 mph and shut off again...this time it would not turn on..i left it alone a few minutes later i tried again and it turned on...i drove back home 20 mph the whole way...the next day i took it to the mechanic and left it all day..he checked everything and test drove it and said it was fine
 
  #2  
Old 11-20-2014, 06:28 AM
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I would buy a new fuel pump relay. There known to go bad. Had that problem on my car. I'm not saying that is what's wrong with yours but there is a good chance it is.
 
  #3  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:49 PM
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There is a long list of "things" that this could be. We can test or start thrwoing parts/money at it?

Do you have a volt meter and can test a few things yourself? The bad things is that the testing will have to be done when the car decides to act up.

Oh, and we are assuming the CEL isn't on or have any stored codes....I'm guessing the shop would have checked but have to ask.
 
  #4  
Old 11-21-2014, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Dakotademon7 View Post
I would buy a new fuel pump relay. There known to go bad. Had that problem on my car. I'm not saying that is what's wrong with yours but there is a good chance it is.
I was told to do that and i read in a few places thst that could be the problem
 
  #5  
Old 11-21-2014, 01:55 AM
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Default Test before you throw parts

Originally Posted by erniep24 View Post
I was told to do that and i read in a few places thst that could be the problem
So do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated? If so, have you pulled the codes? Have you checked the condition of the ignition switch? Have you checked the condition of the main relay? Have you checked your spark at each plug wire end? Scannerdanner has an excellent video on youtube for checking spark with a test light. His test allows you to listen for changes in engine RPM as you remove each plug. You should notice a drop in RPM as your remove each plug (one at a time and then plug back in before moving on). Any plug wire removal that is not followed by a drop in RPM indicates that cylinder is not firing. Have you checked your spark plugs, changed the plugs, rotor, cap, checked for an internal oil leak inside the distributor? Have you checked your wires (at night or in a darkened area) for arcing to ground (bad insulation)? There are a multitude of things I would mark off the list prior to a fuel pump. They are easier to address, probably cheaper and probably need to be addressed (even if it is the fuel pump). Does your Honda have a Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor? My 1997 Accord EX inline 4 has one. There is a small "O" ring that seals the sensor to the manifold. The part is cheap from the dealer. Mine was hardened, flattened and starting to crack. Have you removed the air intake and cleaned the throttle body?

I hope some of these suggestions help. Please update the list as to what you have checked and what parts (if any) you have replaced.

Best of luck. It is always nice to learn what another DIY finds and how they go about fixing the problem. It might just help some with a similar problem.


Sincerely,


ps I forgot to ask one other important question.... Did you change in the inline fuel filter? I would certainly want a new (clean) fuel filter to make certain this is not the issue .... before spending the time, money and effort to replace the fuel pump, suction filter and internal rubber connecting hose.
 
  #6  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:17 PM
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Sounds like a bad ground or a loose wire. I'd begin by checking all your electrical connections starting at the battery.
 
  #7  
Old 11-21-2014, 11:13 PM
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Default changed the relay

Originally Posted by bsdubois View Post
So do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated? If so, have you pulled the codes? Have you checked the condition of the ignition switch? Have you checked the condition of the main relay? Have you checked your spark at each plug wire end? Scannerdanner has an excellent video on youtube for checking spark with a test light. His test allows you to listen for changes in engine RPM as you remove each plug. You should notice a drop in RPM as your remove each plug (one at a time and then plug back in before moving on). Any plug wire removal that is not followed by a drop in RPM indicates that cylinder is not firing. Have you checked your spark plugs, changed the plugs, rotor, cap, checked for an internal oil leak inside the distributor? Have you checked your wires (at night or in a darkened area) for arcing to ground (bad insulation)? There are a multitude of things I would mark off the list prior to a fuel pump. They are easier to address, probably cheaper and probably need to be addressed (even if it is the fuel pump). Does your Honda have a Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor? My 1997 Accord EX inline 4 has one. There is a small "O" ring that seals the sensor to the manifold. The part is cheap from the dealer. Mine was hardened, flattened and starting to crack. Have you removed the air intake and cleaned the throttle body?

I hope some of these suggestions help. Please update the list as to what you have checked and what parts (if any) you have replaced.

Best of luck. It is always nice to learn what another DIY finds and how they go about fixing the problem. It might just help some with a similar problem.


Sincerely,


ps I forgot to ask one other important question.... Did you change in the inline fuel filter? I would certainly want a new (clean) fuel filter to make certain this is not the issue .... before spending the time, money and effort to replace the fuel pump, suction filter and internal rubber connecting hose.
I changed the relay and I drove it hard for an hour on the highway and it did perfectly fine but later on today I drove to work and when I drove back home from work as I got off the highway I stopped at a red light and it shut off on me again it took about four tries right on the spot but it turned on I snapped it into drive and took off and it didn't shut off all the way to the house
 
  #8  
Old 11-21-2014, 11:24 PM
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I had a cracked battery clamp that caused the same symptoms. The warmer the engine bay temperature got, the looser the clamp was. Wondered why the car had a very slight hesitation/stutter while driving for days prior. $5.00 fix is the best kind.
 
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