93 accord turns off while driving then back on a few minutes later
#1
93 accord turns off while driving then back on a few minutes later
Hey guys i have a bit of an issue...my 93 accord just got some work done..new valves and timing belt..after the work got done it was driving fine even dough i felt like it was struggleling a bit till 2 days afterwords i was on the highway doing about 70 mph and i took my exit...i was driving about 20 mph and the car shut off....i pulled to the side and put it neutral and it turned back on...i drove about 4 blocks and when i tried to speed up it hit 30 mph and shut off again...this time it would not turn on..i left it alone a few minutes later i tried again and it turned on...i drove back home 20 mph the whole way...the next day i took it to the mechanic and left it all day..he checked everything and test drove it and said it was fine
#3
There is a long list of "things" that this could be. We can test or start thrwoing parts/money at it?
Do you have a volt meter and can test a few things yourself? The bad things is that the testing will have to be done when the car decides to act up.
Oh, and we are assuming the CEL isn't on or have any stored codes....I'm guessing the shop would have checked but have to ask.
Do you have a volt meter and can test a few things yourself? The bad things is that the testing will have to be done when the car decides to act up.
Oh, and we are assuming the CEL isn't on or have any stored codes....I'm guessing the shop would have checked but have to ask.
#4
I was told to do that and i read in a few places thst that could be the problem
#5
Test before you throw parts
I hope some of these suggestions help. Please update the list as to what you have checked and what parts (if any) you have replaced.
Best of luck. It is always nice to learn what another DIY finds and how they go about fixing the problem. It might just help some with a similar problem.
Sincerely,
ps I forgot to ask one other important question.... Did you change in the inline fuel filter? I would certainly want a new (clean) fuel filter to make certain this is not the issue .... before spending the time, money and effort to replace the fuel pump, suction filter and internal rubber connecting hose.
#7
changed the relay
So do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated? If so, have you pulled the codes? Have you checked the condition of the ignition switch? Have you checked the condition of the main relay? Have you checked your spark at each plug wire end? Scannerdanner has an excellent video on youtube for checking spark with a test light. His test allows you to listen for changes in engine RPM as you remove each plug. You should notice a drop in RPM as your remove each plug (one at a time and then plug back in before moving on). Any plug wire removal that is not followed by a drop in RPM indicates that cylinder is not firing. Have you checked your spark plugs, changed the plugs, rotor, cap, checked for an internal oil leak inside the distributor? Have you checked your wires (at night or in a darkened area) for arcing to ground (bad insulation)? There are a multitude of things I would mark off the list prior to a fuel pump. They are easier to address, probably cheaper and probably need to be addressed (even if it is the fuel pump). Does your Honda have a Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor? My 1997 Accord EX inline 4 has one. There is a small "O" ring that seals the sensor to the manifold. The part is cheap from the dealer. Mine was hardened, flattened and starting to crack. Have you removed the air intake and cleaned the throttle body?
I hope some of these suggestions help. Please update the list as to what you have checked and what parts (if any) you have replaced.
Best of luck. It is always nice to learn what another DIY finds and how they go about fixing the problem. It might just help some with a similar problem.
Sincerely,
ps I forgot to ask one other important question.... Did you change in the inline fuel filter? I would certainly want a new (clean) fuel filter to make certain this is not the issue .... before spending the time, money and effort to replace the fuel pump, suction filter and internal rubber connecting hose.
I hope some of these suggestions help. Please update the list as to what you have checked and what parts (if any) you have replaced.
Best of luck. It is always nice to learn what another DIY finds and how they go about fixing the problem. It might just help some with a similar problem.
Sincerely,
ps I forgot to ask one other important question.... Did you change in the inline fuel filter? I would certainly want a new (clean) fuel filter to make certain this is not the issue .... before spending the time, money and effort to replace the fuel pump, suction filter and internal rubber connecting hose.
#8
I had a cracked battery clamp that caused the same symptoms. The warmer the engine bay temperature got, the looser the clamp was. Wondered why the car had a very slight hesitation/stutter while driving for days prior. $5.00 fix is the best kind.
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