Cooling issue (turbo f22b1)
#1
Cooling issue (turbo f22b1)
sup,
i have a f22b1 with a turbo and my issuse is the car gets hot after driving on the free way. i can keep it cool by reving the motor at about 3000 rpms and the temp will come down. is there some thing i can put around the m24 garret turbo? or do i need to get a new manifold to relocate the turbo..........
i ideas would be huge help........:confuse d::confuse d:
i have a f22b1 with a turbo and my issuse is the car gets hot after driving on the free way. i can keep it cool by reving the motor at about 3000 rpms and the temp will come down. is there some thing i can put around the m24 garret turbo? or do i need to get a new manifold to relocate the turbo..........
i ideas would be huge help........:confuse d::confuse d:
#2
if it gets hot like that and youre sure its not something wrong with the engine i would say upgrade youre cooling system and wrap the turbo in the thermal wraps made for them. if you have the money buy a better radiator with more cores in it. are you running an intercooler for the turbo?
#5
Ok thats good. make more power too . hmm...id say check over your engine, make sure its not leaking any fluids, especially coolant. check your coolant and oil for level and unusual coloring or nasty gunk. if everything is good in the engine wrap that turbo and down pipe. then go find a new upgraded radiator and silicon hoses. probly password jdm or gen5alive. you can always try a coolant flush and then thin out the mixture from 50/50 to 60/40. might work best. you know it also might be a thermostat problem like its not working and letting the flow go through. something else to look into. has the water pump and timing belt been done on its intervals??
haha i was writing when you posted finch :P
haha i was writing when you posted finch :P
Last edited by clutch811; 10-22-2009 at 08:25 PM. Reason: repetetive question...
#6
Actually, going from 50/50 to 60/40 is only gonna raise the boiling point 5º. A lot of people run a higher pressure radiator cap (with a radiator that can handle higher pressure) like 19PSI instead of 15.
How are you determining the car is running hot? Temp gauge not in the middle? Do you have an infrared thermometer to measure the head temp? Should be under 200º after running the car.
My first step would be putting a new OEM thermostat in, then replacing the water pump. If you want, an aluminum radiator (Koyo, Mushimoto, Fluidyne), high pressure cap and some Samco hoses and clamps would be next on my list (if you're driving it hard). After that, you've basically replaced the entire cooling system.
How much boost are you running? Did you upgrade the head bolts? If you increase that pressure too much you're going to lift the head off the block, but if you're still making decent power (and have decent compression numbers) with no milkshake oil/coolant mix, I wouldn't worry too much about it at this point.
How are you determining the car is running hot? Temp gauge not in the middle? Do you have an infrared thermometer to measure the head temp? Should be under 200º after running the car.
My first step would be putting a new OEM thermostat in, then replacing the water pump. If you want, an aluminum radiator (Koyo, Mushimoto, Fluidyne), high pressure cap and some Samco hoses and clamps would be next on my list (if you're driving it hard). After that, you've basically replaced the entire cooling system.
How much boost are you running? Did you upgrade the head bolts? If you increase that pressure too much you're going to lift the head off the block, but if you're still making decent power (and have decent compression numbers) with no milkshake oil/coolant mix, I wouldn't worry too much about it at this point.
#8
Water's heat capacity is greater than ethylene glycol, so YES going to more water & less antifreeze should improve cooling. Too little antifreeze & you lose some corrosion protection, so if you go 60/40 then you should probably replace your antifreeze more often to keep the anti-corrosion stuff fresh. Maybe every year??
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