I put in some Arias pistons 86mm, and was wondering if a H22 Head would fit. I know that there are a couple of H22 so which one. Than what else do I need to be able to dis this swap. Can I still use the same ECU that is on the car well a tuned one but for that model. The car is a 1994 Honda accord ex so which H22 Year would be best. I would really appreciate the help thank you

 

Be4 I answer anything.....did you take the 30sec to search for your questions?

 

I did but could not find out exactly which H22 will fit for best HP gains. I was also wanting to order the head Fully built. I know that I will probably have to buy some parts for the swap like alternator not really certain what exactly. I also ask cause could not find whether or not the 86mm would have any complications being the fact that the H22 is 87mm. So I am really hoping you can help. And my car has OBD1

 

it's not really going to matter what head you use. All the head designs are the same. The auto h22s have a smaller TB so they have lower HP rating. It's pretty much all in the cams after that. The h22a4 has the same spec cams as the h22a (jdm) The you have the h22a1 that doesn’t have that much of as a aggressive cam as the h22a. You also have the type s h22/f20b cams which yield the most power.
But if your going with a "built" head I would swap out the cams for aftermarket spec.

Now doing this swap is NOT easy. You will need to plug 2 oil ports on the head. The best way to do it is by welding so you won't ever blow out the head ports b/c if you do you will have to pop the head buy new HG reseal the 2 ports all over again ect. ect. ect. You will also need a h22 crankshaft timing gear (I have one if you need it for 40bucks they are really hard to find)
You will need to contact cosmetic head gaskets to have a custom HG made for this sswap. PPl say you can use a f23 head gasket but I don't trust it you have to drill out one of the rivets and crap it's a pain well worth the money to get a better HG made by cosmetic. Also I recommend buying H22 ARP head studs you don't want to reuse head bolts. Now on with the ECU you will need a p72 ecu chipped with a tuning software (crome/hondata ect.) and it will need a h22 base map but you DON'T want to drive around on a base map. The base map is to only run your car at idle. At the point you will need to trailer your honda to a tuner to tune your engine correctly.

Also the prob. with this swap is the engine block is holding your back. You can really only spin a f22/h23 crank 6500rmps daily. You can pull 7000-7200rppms out of it but you will end up with spun rod bearings. So with that short of a red line your not really using vtec since it engages at 4500rpms and doesn’t really kick in un till 5k or so. Your tuner can lower the vtec engagement point but that will cause your tq curve to suck. All in all this swap is time consuming and filled with headaches. I know iv built one and as I'm almost done I have gone with a whole diff. block for my "hybrid" swap.
Also you might not be all that happy with your power goals at the end of the swap. You will prob pull a good 180hp out of it.

 

WOW thank you I really appreciate the help. I am just going to leave it as is and tune it. Than I am going to probably sell it. I envisioned a all motor set up like that but if I am only going to get 180 out of it even thou it has forged pistons and rods. The H22 head won't even do that much. I do have a friend trying to sell me his hatch but there is this rattle on the head but he said it might be something small or the dual springs that is causing the chatter. Thank you

 

swap a full h22 for close to the same price, with 200hp to the crank and about 185-190 to the wheels stock. then build your motor. cams, header, exhaust, intake manifold, ported heads, etc

can get some nice power na out of the h22, even treat it to some light boost if you want, higher boost will require a sleeved block

 

You can boost the crap out of a h22 engine without sleeveing the block I donno why ppl keep thinking just b/c it has FRM cyl walls you can't boost that engine or that the cyl are bad. For one it's all in the tune if you can find a good tuner that really know his/her stuff you can boost on h22 stock c/r. It's even better if it's a USDM h22 since that block uses the 10:5:1 c/r. Now if you don't have a killer tuner in your area you can also spend $500 for Mahle pistons. They are made to be used on FRM cyl walls unlike the rest of the pistons that available.