Im swapping an obd 1 h23a non vtec motor and auto trans into my accord, also obd 1, automatic, and non vtec. I know im going to have to get the ecu and the tcm from the prelude but i need to know what i have to do in terms of wiring to the ecu ect. any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

 

Well if you are getting the motor, trans, ecu and tcu from the donor car...not sure if any changes would be needed. I'd suggest getting a manual for both cars and compare the pinouts, sorry I don't have a pinout for the prelude.

 

Only differences that I can recall between the P0B and P14 OBD1 ECU wiring are the O2 heater circuit and the EGR control solenoid valve wires are swapped and the addition of a wire for the H23A1 IAB.

Depending on what ECU diagram you use will determine what pin numbers they are.

If you use the readily available PDF manuals that you can download for free online, the pins are A6 and A11 for the O2 and EGR and A17 for the IAB.

The H23 intake manifold has the Intake Air Bypass (IAB) system installed. You will have to add a wire to the ECU harness @ pin A17 in order to have the P14 ECu activate the IAB electronically.

 

thanks for the help guys. when the time comes hopefully i'll get it right.

 

ok. so i understand a6 and a11 have to be switched at the connector inside the car. but with a17 im supposed to run it through the firewall to the connectors next to the fusebox in the engine bay? if so which one and which hole. im sorry if these are dumb questions, this is my first swap and my first attempt at any wiring of any kind.

 

google "honda obd1 pinout" u will be popping open the back of the ecu connector and sliding in the pin then close the connector ...google "axidworks" to buy a ready made iab kit

 

i know that much. im trying to figure out where i should run the a17 wire to after i get it plugged into the ecu connector. trying to keep it kinda cheap.

 

The wire goes through the fire wall and connects directly to the AIB solenoid located on the H23 intake manifold black box. You can have it go through the strut mount connector if you want... or just run it direct. Hopefully your swap comes with all the appropriate connectors so you can just splice/solder the wires to them.

 

thanks so much cd5accord. i hope it has them too. that answers all of my questions about this swap. it should go perfectly now that i know this wiring stuff. thanks so much every one. i'll end up posting pics of the rebuild and the finished product over the year..