Car: 1997 Honda Accord w/ f22b2

The Story:

Driving home from playing a show w/ my band, my car sputters maybe 2 or 3 times and then dies. Still have electrical accessories. I pop it into neutral and try starting it once while coasting. Nothing. Coast to a complete stop in a neighborhood about 4 miles from my home. Luckily i was with my friend who i hire as my mechanic from time to time when its not normal maintenance. No spark to the plugs but the dist. is getting spark. We get the car back to my place the next day and start taking it apart. First thing noticed, timing belt is missing a few teeth. We then have a real bad feeling about this as Honda labels this motor an interference motor. Upon digging further we discover the balancing belt is destroyed, the timing belt is intact but missing 29 consecutive teeth. I give him the okay to get parts to fix timing and balance belts as well as the water pump after we take the spark plugs out and see no visible damage or signs of impact on the piston heads. The job went pretty smooth and after 2 or 3 times trying to start, she runs again. Once running again we notice that its idle is a little rough and get under the car and start looking around. The crank pulley is not smooth. Either it is wobbling or the crank now has play. I can't find much info on the interweb about the crank play, i did however find some into on the crank pulley wobble. We did not use the special Honda tool that is made to take the crank pulley bolt off, instead he used his impact. I read that for the f23 the bolt needs to be at 134 ft/lbs torque. Again i can not find the info related to my f22. Just curious if anyone has any similar occurrences or any idea what to check next before scraping the motor. It seems now that getting a motor may have been the way to go from the beginning but hindsight is always 20/20, you live and you learn. ANY help would be appreciated guys. thanks for your time.

 

re: looking at autozone website for their repair guide, it says do not use an impact to reinstall crank bolt...why? b.c this is how it was done.

also, is there a washer that should be between the crank pulley and the balance pulley?

 

There should be a 16X49 washer behind the bolt. Part Detail
I used a 3/8 impact gun with some loctite on the crank pulley bolt when i did mine, i know it's not recommended :-)

 

the washer you are referring to is number 21 and would be between the bolt and the pulley correct?

 

That's the one.

 

update:

yesterday...
Bought a used motor that someone was gonna scrap b/c of a bad head gasket...good deal too only 150. Anyway, we pulled the crank pulley from the new used motor as well as the bottom timing belt cover. It started fine, runs fine at RPMs geather than 1000 but still has an idle issue.

today:
took the car around town to get parts and food and things of that nature. The car died while idling 2 or 3 times throughout the day. The parts i picked up today were new spark plugs and a dist rotor. The car started fine and seemed to be idling better for the first few minutes. Then the CEL started blinking and it threw a p0303 (misfire 3rd cyl) and p1399 (Manufactures control Ignition system OR Misfire).

now:
As stated by the title i KINDA survived a timing belt but am starting to lean toward the possibility that i have valve issues in cyl 3 but i am also reading that i should clean out the EGR intake ports first b/c i threw an EGR code recently too.

i will update again when the egr ports are clean, may switch fuel injectors too since i now have an extra set laying in the other motor. Any advice on where to check next is welcome and appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

update: Bent valve in cyl 3!

After getting sick and tired of terrible idle over the course of a week or two, i finally found somebody who had a compression tester. Compression is 185psi for 1, 2, and 4, only 165psi for 3. While 165 is low it is still high enough for the car to run. I am still using it as a daily driver and trying to make arrangements to swap out the heads of the motor in the car and the second motor i purchased.

FYI...No more EGR code, i took the fuel rail off and cleaned out the EGR passages. This took maybe a half hour and made an obvious difference in the airflow of the car. If you decide to do this REMEMBER TO HAVE A VACUUM HANDY! You don't wanna drop all that **** (built up carbon) in your motor. This guys has been a lot of help for me, check him out if you dare! P0401 Honda Accord, Cleaning EGR Passages - YouTube