Ok, so I had my broken motor mount replaced on the cheap for 50$. But this guy who is a "certified honda tech" managed to screw it up. Long story short, the top left bolt into the engine block has the head torqued off. I've had 1 estimate for 240$ and another for 40$ to extract the bolt with the engine out of the car. The mechanic for 240$ said he would leave it if it was his car. I think I agree.
My question is, for anyone who is looking: You can see in the photo where the old bolts were and how the new bolts are placed approximatly 1/2 inch below on the plate. This is because he did the procedure wrong, and did not jack the engine the 1/2 inch to remove the mount. Insted he just removed the block bolts from a hot engine; hence, a broken bolt. (oooh, its fine, that's a common problem,, buy the way you need a new transmission, timing belt, etc)
Now I am looking at this and it seems I can fix this on my own, I have a jack and can do it with the engine cold. I now it might be unecessary and mabey I should just leave it, but my concern is that the entire engine is now tilted 1/2 inch on its axis which could protentialially damage other parts. I know I had a broken mount for so many miles, but... is there any way to check that the engine is properly balanced on the mounts, or will the rubber mount take care of mr. certifed tech's stupidity? (There is also a third bolt not visible in the photo below these two, creating a triangle pattern. This plate attaches to the block and extends down the where the mount attaches to the frame.)
BTW I got my fity bucks back.

 

He broke it? Doesn't he want to fix what he broke?

 

"its a common problem".... that can only get worse..., I wouldn't let this guy rotate my tires now. Also this guy doesn't have 240$. And do I want to take him to small claims court?... All I have is an invoice for the part, labor was done @ a honda dealer but off the books. This is starting to drive me crazy.

 

The pic looks like the hole is wallowed/ oval shaped ?
Because there is plenty of metal around the hole, I would consider a 90 degree drill, and drill out the existing threads, then install a Heli-coil insert or Timesert.
As far as the tension on the motor mounts, Find someone you really trust have them hold the brake and put the car in drive, you stand out front and loosen the Crossing mount bolt thru the rubber bushing of the subframe mount, then retighten it.
You might have a little vibration in reverse with brake on using this method, but hey you're in Drive 99.9999999999% more than reverse.

 

That tension method sounds like it should work good, although I looked in an older acura manual for torque specs (all I have access to), basically the crossing mount bolt is at around 70 lbs, and the other bolts are at approx. 40lbs. There was no mention of this method you speak of though...

 

If there is enough of the bolt sticking out of the engine block, you may be able to remove the mount/bracket and use some vice grips to remove the broken bolt. You will just have to use a jack with a wooden board to support the engine on the oil pan when you remove the front mount.

I would douse with PB-Blaster before I attempted to remove using a vice grip.

An easy out could get the job done too.