I have a 97 accord LX, trying to pass MD inspection and have a front motor mount problem(behind radiator).
I got one off ebay for 27 bucks and now debating if I should take it to a shop for 60 bucks or do it myself

is there any detail tutorials? what special tools do I need?

Thanks

 

No special tools needed, you need a 14 and 17 mm sockets , rachet, extension, breaker bar
remove the 3 14 mm bolts that attach the mount top support to engine block, make sure to unhook the plug at the bracket, remove the 17mm bolt that goes sicdeways at lower part of bracket into the mount, if AT it is a bit more of a pain, tranny cooler lines are in the way, once out, remove the 3 14 mm bolts that hold the mount into the beam, remove the mount,,
reinstall reverse order ..............
after you tighten the 3 14 mm bolts , start the lower 17 mm blot but DO NOT tighten it at this time, start the 3 14 mm bolts then tighten everything up .

 

Trying not to unnecessarily start new threads, so you'll see a few resurrections of old threads from me.

I am in the same boat as the OP. Getting a 96 LX thru inspection. While removing the broken motor mount and its associated parts, the lower center bolt into the block sheared off (with hand tools no less!)

Now what? How the hell do you get that out of there? All the other bolts came out and went in fine. Will it still pass inspection with those two intact bolts? There is zero chance of any kind of drill getting in there with the engine in the car.

 

I'm going to bet they don't notice the bolt missing......at least where I am they wouldn't. If you are worried or think they will, use silicone to hold the broken piece in there to get thru.

I'm assuming this is one of the three that hold the bracket to the block, two will be fine and no safety issue is involved.

 

Poorman..thanks...that is what I was thinking, but thought I'd ask around for opinions. I may just glue it in place. It is the lower of the three that go into the block & there is no static load on that mount. I am guessing it takes the on/off throttle loads.

 

Is there any part of the bolt that is exposed past the engine block?

 

PAHonda,

Negative..it is recessed ever so slightly. It did turn out a couple of turns, and I was trying to work it easily..Sparyed with PB Blaster..sit, work it in both directions, etc.etc..it felt like it was slowly going to come out, and then <snap!> without much warning.

Guess the old Grade 5/8 bolt in the aluminum block got some corrosion in their from 15 years of rain/wet/salt/etc..

 

drill it out and retap.

 

I found the same thing on my 94 EX when I replaced front motor mount. One bolt twisted off as I turned thinking it was just tight. Two seems to work fine. I guess your inspectors are quite thorough to detect this fault. In my case it's worked fine for several years w/ 2 bolts holding the bracket to the block.

Here's how to remove the sheared bolt, but it may cost a bit.

1) Take car to a good welding/machine shop
2) Remove mount assy.
3) Weld nut that just fits over braken stub end, even if stub end is flush w/ block. Nut will have to be held in place w/ glue to allow the initial tacks through the nut to be made. Then completely fill nut w/ weld metal.
4) Allow to cool and remove broken bolt.

There is a chance the bolt is so cross-threaded it may twist the welded nut off. However there's a good chance someone simply overtorqued the bolt and it twisted off at top of threads.

Drilling bolt out is possible, but will require a very skilled person w/ drill bit to center punch and gradually drill bolt completely out. Then you can re-tap for some type of thread insert to allow same size bolt to be used.

good luck

 

Got the car thru inspection. I chose to superglue the sheared off bolt head onto the mount to make it look right..thanks for the confidence that it is safe with the remaining two bolts.

My new (China made) upper A-arm that was needed to fix the bad upper ball joint has a slight thunk in it I think on clutch load & unload...unless it is the motor mount thunking..LOL.