02 Accord Cold Air Intake advice
#1
02 Accord Cold Air Intake advice
Hey guys,
I was wondering if anyone has some advice regarding a cold air intake for a 2.3 automatic. Im pretty new to this stuff so ive been trying to gather as much info as possible. The AEM and the Injen ones look pretty nice. Do you guys think a bypass valve would be necessary for a place like Detroit?
The K&N ones are not available for the 2.3 for some reason... Only the 2.2
Thanks everyone!!!
SteveZ
I was wondering if anyone has some advice regarding a cold air intake for a 2.3 automatic. Im pretty new to this stuff so ive been trying to gather as much info as possible. The AEM and the Injen ones look pretty nice. Do you guys think a bypass valve would be necessary for a place like Detroit?
The K&N ones are not available for the 2.3 for some reason... Only the 2.2
Thanks everyone!!!
SteveZ
#2
Yes I'd suggest a bypass valve, you dont want to get to the point when you say "oops well I guess I should have gotten that bypass valve"... However CAI's don't really do much for our car other than sound. These engines have been pretty much engineered to the max, your not driving a mid 90's ford that has something stupid designed into it that is causing massive power loss.
I'd suggest removing the resonator box below the stock air filter box. (its behind the bumper cover infront of the right tire) You will gain a sporty growl, while remaining subtle, and you would also get a little more response from the throttle.
I have had SRI's and CAI's and at this point I am back to stock (well modified stock, just have a cone filter attached to the end of the stock intake tube).
While you might want loud and aggressive there are times when you will be sorry that it is so loud. I have had those experiences, there is nothing worse than going up a mountain pass at WOT not going very fast getting passed by people in subaru outbacks looking at you because your making all this noise but not moving any faster. Yes that kind of attention is embarrassing
Since you have the 2.3 you probably have the F23a4 ULEV. The best thing you can do is get a good header and exhaust, as the f23a4 header is more restrictive than the f23a1.
I'd suggest removing the resonator box below the stock air filter box. (its behind the bumper cover infront of the right tire) You will gain a sporty growl, while remaining subtle, and you would also get a little more response from the throttle.
I have had SRI's and CAI's and at this point I am back to stock (well modified stock, just have a cone filter attached to the end of the stock intake tube).
While you might want loud and aggressive there are times when you will be sorry that it is so loud. I have had those experiences, there is nothing worse than going up a mountain pass at WOT not going very fast getting passed by people in subaru outbacks looking at you because your making all this noise but not moving any faster. Yes that kind of attention is embarrassing
Since you have the 2.3 you probably have the F23a4 ULEV. The best thing you can do is get a good header and exhaust, as the f23a4 header is more restrictive than the f23a1.
Last edited by Silver6gen; 12-09-2012 at 12:07 AM.
#3
Thank you so much for all of the info. I actually have the F23a1. Is that better or worse than the other 2 models? Id love to learn a little about that too if you can.
Thanks sooo much. Im very grateful to have of this knowledge just one question away!!!
Thanks sooo much. Im very grateful to have of this knowledge just one question away!!!
#4
The three models of the F23 in the 6th gen accord are as follows:
F23a1
Max power: 150 hp (112 kW) @ 5700 rpm
Max torque: 152 lb·ft (205 N m) @ 4900 rpm
F23a4 ULEV, it has a more restrictive header, intake and head. However with a decent aftermarket header I am sure the numbers from this engine are the same from the a1. I have owned both and can say there is no "seat of the pants" difference.
Max power: 148 hp (108 kW) @5x00 rpm
Max Torque: 150 lb·ft (203 Nm) @4x00rpm
F23a5 (Accord DX and LX value package)
Max power: 135 hp (100 kW) @ 5500 rpm
Max torque: 153 lb·ft (206 Nm) @ 4500 rpm
F23a1
Max power: 150 hp (112 kW) @ 5700 rpm
Max torque: 152 lb·ft (205 N m) @ 4900 rpm
F23a4 ULEV, it has a more restrictive header, intake and head. However with a decent aftermarket header I am sure the numbers from this engine are the same from the a1. I have owned both and can say there is no "seat of the pants" difference.
Max power: 148 hp (108 kW) @5x00 rpm
Max Torque: 150 lb·ft (203 Nm) @4x00rpm
F23a5 (Accord DX and LX value package)
Max power: 135 hp (100 kW) @ 5500 rpm
Max torque: 153 lb·ft (206 Nm) @ 4500 rpm
#5
Thanks so much Silver for all the info. I'm really falling for my Gold LX. I got lucky and got a literal old lady car with 28k miles. $10K and she was all mine. I got a little scared after i started reading about the trans issues that the 6th gens were having. But i figured, you will always hear more bad than good. I'm glad i didn't get the Fusion
Last edited by SteveZee; 12-11-2012 at 02:41 PM.
#6
I would suggest changing your trans fluid every 20k miles.
Also it would benifit you to install a Transmission Cooler
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...y-guide-48791/
Also it would benifit you to install a Transmission Cooler
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...y-guide-48791/
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