Things checked:

1. Found a blown fuse (FR ACC - Front Accessories?)- replaced it - blown again when I try to start the engine. Obviously, there's a short circuit somewhere, but can't trace. Please advise.

2. When I tried to start, I hear clicking noice on the lower left-hand side where the relay/fuse box is. I think the sound I'm hearing is the relays clicking. I checked the starter cut relay and that was ok. So, I haven't had time to check any other relays at this location.

3. In the ENGINE relay compartment, I checked all operation of fuses and they're in working condition. I did hear clicking noise where the starter is at, but I cound't hear anything spinning. It sounds like the starter solenoid is getting power and trying to turn on the starter, but I couldn't hear any starter sounds.

My next step is to check voltage at the solenoid, but the intake manifold is in the way. I don't have easy access to it to hook up my voltmeter. It's going to take a lot ot work to test the solenoid and starter.

Any ideas where I can find this short circuit? This is getting more difficult than I thought.[:@]

I need to find the problem or lose face. I'm trying to show my wife that it was worth taking the auto mechanics class, Starting/Charging System.

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do the easiest things first. thats not a problem that happens with that model. get the battery tested. im sure one of our heavy hitters will have some more ideas for you.

 

is it a 4 or 6 cylinder??

the fuse that bows is it located on the underdash driver side fuse box ?? which fuse # is it ??
does it blow the fuse only when you turn the key in the start position ?? if so,, remove the wire from the starter solenoid and see if fuse still blows.......it might be wise to get a circuit breaker and chk for a short that way , instead of replacing fuses ..

 

The blown fuse is #9 under the dash. I don't know how it blew the 1st time, but the brand new, replacement fuse was blown when I tried to start the engine. I'm not sure which part of the key position it got blown--ACC, Run, or Start --but I think it blew when I turned the key to the Start position.

Update on the stuff I found (I'm only able to do a few tests a day with my busy schedule.)

Inoperable Fuel Pump Relay. The dealer quoted me $25 for this special order item. Pepboys don't carry it.

As you can see in the picture the carbon deposits on the replay (black stuff on the white background) is pretty obvious. It created a spark when I tested it by applying voltage (12V battery voltate) to the 2 white metal plates to activate current flow between the two copper plates.

Conclusion: This must be the problem. I'm not sure if this defective relay damaged anything in the fuel pump. It seemed to create the power surge to blow fuse #9.

I'm going to purchase this Fuel Pump Relay and see if this solves the problem and post an update when I find something new. Thanks for the input.

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Sorry it took so long for me to post this update. I've been packing up to move to another city. It sucks that my car breaks down while I'm in the process, but I finally break down and send my car to a shop.

Update:
I retested the relay and it was ok. It created a spark on my first test.

I was bummed out that the shop mechanic told me that it was the starter, which I didn't get to test since the intake manifold was in the way. The starter costs $175 and labor was $190. Is this too expensive? The mechanic told that this job is usually easy and only charges about $150 total, including the starter.