Over the last couple of weeks, I noticed a slow-down of the wiper speeds (regardless of which setting). A week and a half ago, the wipers just quit. I checked all the fuses and they were good. I found references to a recall on 2003 Accord wiper motors, so I removed mine and opened it up. It was very corroded on the inside, so I ordered a new motor. Prior to replacing the motor, I tested the old one by using the steps in the service manual (which I found links to in this forum - thanks!) by connecting the motor (green wire, terminal 2) straight to the battery and grounding the high (yellow wire, terminal 5) and low (blue wire, terminal 3) speed terminals in turn. It didn't do anything. I replaced the motor and put everything together thinking my problems were over. However, the wipers still don't work. I tried the same testing as I did on the old motor (to ensure I didn't get a dud) and the new motor works when running straight off the battery. The next thing I tried was using a probe to test the power/ground in the wiring harness wiper motor connector. Everything appears to be getting the appropriate power or ground based on the wiper switch settings. I also hear clicking in the engine compartment (presumably from the fuse box area) when selecting the various wiper speeds on the switch. Nothing happens at any speed.

Can anybody help with my next steps? If all the fuses are good, is there a specific relay that runs the wipers? How would I check if that was bad? Looking at the service manual it looks like there is some continuity checking that I can do between various components, but I would think that if I'm getting the power/ground indications at the wiper motor connector, than the rest of it should be ok. But electrical stuff is certainly not my strong point.

Thanks in advance for any help.

2004 Honda Accord LX sedan, 2.4L I4

 

On the Sedan, the electrical connector to the wiper motor has 5 wires. The coupe has different pin numbers.
Here is the numbering and the wire colors on the sedan. The top row is 1 2 3, bottom row 4 5.
1. BLK
2. GRN
3. BLU
4. WHT
5. YEL

GRN is the power feed and should have 12V to a good ground when the ignition key is in the II position. A test light or power probe that can draw some amp can give better information than a volt meter in this case.

BLK is a ground, so hook the test light to + battery terminal and touch the blk wire. The test light should turn on.

You did the motor test properly, where you power the grn and ground blu or yel. You should test for ground on the blu and yel using your power probe to verify these wires are getting ground when switched properly.

The wht wire seems to swing from 12V to <4V. The shop manual says to use an analog volt meter, so you can see the voltage swings. A digital meter may give you the average voltage, because it could average the voltage.

Also, is the washer motor spraying water when you turn it on?

 

All I have is one of those computer-safe logic probes - black on the negative terminal, red on the positive terminal. I also only have a digital multi-meter.

1. BLK - green light on the logic probe - grounded
2. GRN - key in II position - no light, 0.0V
3. BLU - key in II, switch on LO - green light - grounded
4. WHT - key in II, switch on INT - red light - power (10.9V)
5. YEL - key in II, switch on HI - green light - grounded

The washer motor sprays just fine.

I'm no electrician, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say the motor isn't getting power via the connector.

 

Green wire at terminal no. 2 suppose to have power with the ignition switch in the ON or START positions. Power for that wire comes via under-dash fuse no. 11 (30A).

 

Finally got back to the car. Turns out it was the fuse. I had checked all the fuses at the beginning and they were all ok. I think I must have done something either while I was testing circuits or while I was installing the motor that would have cause the fuse to blow. After I replaced the fuse I tried the wipers and they turned on, but wanted to down (rather than up like normal). I pulled the wiper arms off again thinking that the motor wasn't parked properly from when I connected it straight to the battery to test it. With no wiper arms I turned on the switch again so it would re-park, but nothing happened. The fuse had popped again. After a quick trip to the store to get more 30A mini fuses (I only had the one spare), I took everything back out and separated the linkage from the motor. I ran the unconnected motor to park it, then repositioned the linkage arm to connect to the motor. After everything went back in, the wipers worked fine.

Lesson learned for me. Don't assume the fuses are still ok if the thing you're fixing tests ok, but doesn't work once installed.

Thanks everybody for the help.