06 Honda Accord jerk while accelerating
I replaced the O2 sensor and erased the code. All codes are gone. However, the slight jerk problem is still as before. I can see the RPM drops when accelerating, I read some other forums. Some people have the similar issue and they said that is normal. Should i worry about this problem or not? I already have a mechanic check the transmission and the transmission seems to be OK.
Just me and I'm the old crazy guy.
A no code drive ability issue are the fun ones. Does it do it when the engine is cold and warm - normal op temp - or only once in closed loop - normal op temp?
A few normal maint items that I would want to know the health of - air filter and spark plugs? If close or unknown they are wear items and should be replaced - I highly suggest that NGK plugs be used in these Accord's.
Next, a good cleaning of the throttle body (TB). Get both sides of the throttle plate and the outside edge of the TB housing where the plate is when closed, I use an old tooth brush and a few rags to do this.
Next on my list would be to clean the MAF sensor. This takes a cleaner designed to clean MAF sensors and a gentle hand. In simple terms the MAF has a very fine wire that reacts to the air flow/temp change of the air flowing across that "fine wire". So if any dirt has collected on that wire the readings could be off. While doing this be sure that there are not any tears in the intake tubing from the air cleaner to the TB. Read the instructions on the MAF cleaner.
Last, I'll go down in a ball of hot fire for this, run a can or two of your favorite injector cleaner though it. My personal favorite "snake oil" cleaner is seafoam. I will add it to the gas on mine about twice a year., one can will "treat" two tanks of gas....to the haters, it lets me sleep better so leave me alone
A no code drive ability issue are the fun ones. Does it do it when the engine is cold and warm - normal op temp - or only once in closed loop - normal op temp?
A few normal maint items that I would want to know the health of - air filter and spark plugs? If close or unknown they are wear items and should be replaced - I highly suggest that NGK plugs be used in these Accord's.
Next, a good cleaning of the throttle body (TB). Get both sides of the throttle plate and the outside edge of the TB housing where the plate is when closed, I use an old tooth brush and a few rags to do this.
Next on my list would be to clean the MAF sensor. This takes a cleaner designed to clean MAF sensors and a gentle hand. In simple terms the MAF has a very fine wire that reacts to the air flow/temp change of the air flowing across that "fine wire". So if any dirt has collected on that wire the readings could be off. While doing this be sure that there are not any tears in the intake tubing from the air cleaner to the TB. Read the instructions on the MAF cleaner.
Last, I'll go down in a ball of hot fire for this, run a can or two of your favorite injector cleaner though it. My personal favorite "snake oil" cleaner is seafoam. I will add it to the gas on mine about twice a year., one can will "treat" two tanks of gas....to the haters, it lets me sleep better so leave me alone
I already changed the spark plug and the ignition coil but that did not solve the problem. I will follow your suggestions and do those procedure this weekend.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Just me and I'm the old crazy guy.
A no code drive ability issue are the fun ones. Does it do it when the engine is cold and warm - normal op temp - or only once in closed loop - normal op temp?
A few normal maint items that I would want to know the health of - air filter and spark plugs? If close or unknown they are wear items and should be replaced - I highly suggest that NGK plugs be used in these Accord's.
Next, a good cleaning of the throttle body (TB). Get both sides of the throttle plate and the outside edge of the TB housing where the plate is when closed, I use an old tooth brush and a few rags to do this.
Next on my list would be to clean the MAF sensor. This takes a cleaner designed to clean MAF sensors and a gentle hand. In simple terms the MAF has a very fine wire that reacts to the air flow/temp change of the air flowing across that "fine wire". So if any dirt has collected on that wire the readings could be off. While doing this be sure that there are not any tears in the intake tubing from the air cleaner to the TB. Read the instructions on the MAF cleaner.
Last, I'll go down in a ball of hot fire for this, run a can or two of your favorite injector cleaner though it. My personal favorite "snake oil" cleaner is seafoam. I will add it to the gas on mine about twice a year., one can will "treat" two tanks of gas....to the haters, it lets me sleep better so leave me alone
A no code drive ability issue are the fun ones. Does it do it when the engine is cold and warm - normal op temp - or only once in closed loop - normal op temp?
A few normal maint items that I would want to know the health of - air filter and spark plugs? If close or unknown they are wear items and should be replaced - I highly suggest that NGK plugs be used in these Accord's.
Next, a good cleaning of the throttle body (TB). Get both sides of the throttle plate and the outside edge of the TB housing where the plate is when closed, I use an old tooth brush and a few rags to do this.
Next on my list would be to clean the MAF sensor. This takes a cleaner designed to clean MAF sensors and a gentle hand. In simple terms the MAF has a very fine wire that reacts to the air flow/temp change of the air flowing across that "fine wire". So if any dirt has collected on that wire the readings could be off. While doing this be sure that there are not any tears in the intake tubing from the air cleaner to the TB. Read the instructions on the MAF cleaner.
Last, I'll go down in a ball of hot fire for this, run a can or two of your favorite injector cleaner though it. My personal favorite "snake oil" cleaner is seafoam. I will add it to the gas on mine about twice a year., one can will "treat" two tanks of gas....to the haters, it lets me sleep better so leave me alone

I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor today. I also drain and refill the transmission fluid. However, the problem is still there. The only thing i have not tried is the injector cleaner. Will that cause any problem for the engine?
Just me and I'm the old crazy guy.
A no code drive ability issue are the fun ones. Does it do it when the engine is cold and warm - normal op temp - or only once in closed loop - normal op temp?
A few normal maint items that I would want to know the health of - air filter and spark plugs? If close or unknown they are wear items and should be replaced - I highly suggest that NGK plugs be used in these Accord's.
Next, a good cleaning of the throttle body (TB). Get both sides of the throttle plate and the outside edge of the TB housing where the plate is when closed, I use an old tooth brush and a few rags to do this.
Next on my list would be to clean the MAF sensor. This takes a cleaner designed to clean MAF sensors and a gentle hand. In simple terms the MAF has a very fine wire that reacts to the air flow/temp change of the air flowing across that "fine wire". So if any dirt has collected on that wire the readings could be off. While doing this be sure that there are not any tears in the intake tubing from the air cleaner to the TB. Read the instructions on the MAF cleaner.
Last, I'll go down in a ball of hot fire for this, run a can or two of your favorite injector cleaner though it. My personal favorite "snake oil" cleaner is seafoam. I will add it to the gas on mine about twice a year., one can will "treat" two tanks of gas....to the haters, it lets me sleep better so leave me alone
A no code drive ability issue are the fun ones. Does it do it when the engine is cold and warm - normal op temp - or only once in closed loop - normal op temp?
A few normal maint items that I would want to know the health of - air filter and spark plugs? If close or unknown they are wear items and should be replaced - I highly suggest that NGK plugs be used in these Accord's.
Next, a good cleaning of the throttle body (TB). Get both sides of the throttle plate and the outside edge of the TB housing where the plate is when closed, I use an old tooth brush and a few rags to do this.
Next on my list would be to clean the MAF sensor. This takes a cleaner designed to clean MAF sensors and a gentle hand. In simple terms the MAF has a very fine wire that reacts to the air flow/temp change of the air flowing across that "fine wire". So if any dirt has collected on that wire the readings could be off. While doing this be sure that there are not any tears in the intake tubing from the air cleaner to the TB. Read the instructions on the MAF cleaner.
Last, I'll go down in a ball of hot fire for this, run a can or two of your favorite injector cleaner though it. My personal favorite "snake oil" cleaner is seafoam. I will add it to the gas on mine about twice a year., one can will "treat" two tanks of gas....to the haters, it lets me sleep better so leave me alone

Maybe i did not clean the throttle body correctly, i only apply the cleaner on one side of the intake valve plate, how can i access the other side of the intake valve plate? i use my hand to push the plate but it seems i can only push a little bit. What is the correct way to clean the TB?
My bad, forgot that there is a "gen split" on these......the 06 went to a DBW - Drive By Wire set up where there is no "cable" on the TB. So the only real way to get to the back side would be to remove the TB.....so getting to that is a bit more involved than most might want to get into.
I took my to car to a local mechanics who is an expert on Honda cars. We take a test drive and i show him the "jerk" phenomena. He told me that this is gear shifting and that is perfectly normal. I tends to trust what he told me as the "jerk" is slightly noticeable. I heard from other forum that some one feel the same thing even when they drive a new Honda car. So maybe i dont need to do anything about it?
My bad, forgot that there is a "gen split" on these......the 06 went to a DBW - Drive By Wire set up where there is no "cable" on the TB. So the only real way to get to the back side would be to remove the TB.....so getting to that is a bit more involved than most might want to get into.
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kumaresh.perumal
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Apr 4, 2010 11:14 AM



