I have a 1990 Accord LX that in the span of 7 days has shut off twice while the engine was running. All the lights on the dash turned off the first time it shut off. (I do not remember if the same happened the second time it shut off). I have heard that the igniter in the distributor, ignition coil, ignition switch and a relay that powers the ignition and fuel system could be the causes of the problem. The car has plenty of gas in the fuel tank and the engine does turn over but it really seems like it's not getting fuel. Any recommendations?
Where exactly is the igniter and ignition coil in the photos that I have posted?

 

The coil is the big thing with the bent-distorted spring coming out from the post.

The ignitor is visible in picture 2 & 3 towards the bottom with the wires attached.

If your problem is the main relay, here's the scenario...
- Turn the key to ON but don't immediately turn to START.
- CEL should turn on, you hear a click, then LISTEN for the fuel pump running.
- - (it's a soft hum inside the fuel tank)
- Pump should run for 2 seconds then turn off - you'll hear the main relay click again.

If you can get it to stall by wiggling the key, then it's almost certainly the electrical part of the ignition switch. If you can't get it by wiggling the key, that DOES NOT prove the switch is good.

 

It is also possible for the relay to make the CEL function correctly while not sending power to the fuel pump. Some people may never be able to hear the pump running without sticking one's ear in the fuel filler.

If the dash lights went out...my guess...ignition switch.

 

The main relay doesn't switch the CEL - the PCM switches that lamp directly.

But yeah, all the light going off does suggest the ignition switch.

 

I did a fuel pressure test and found out that it is getting fuel pressure. I did realize that when I cycle the key to run position before trying the crank over the engine.....that the lights on the dash do not come on, usually the battery light and other lights will come on once the key is in the key on engine off position. I have to hold the key at myself to make the lights come on, if I let go of the keys the lights on the dash all turn off. Would it be safe to say that there's a strong possibility that the ignition switch is bad?

 

VERY strong possibility. But try something...
Remove the plastic shrouds around the steering column so you can see the electrical part of the switch (opposite the key). It's held in by 2 screws, and check if they are loose.

There's a small chance that you can get away with simply positioning the switch properly and tightening the screws. But if you see anything broken or burned, then buy a new switch.

 

Does this vehicle have air bags? Would it be good precaution to disconnect the battery before going into the steering wheel/steering column?

 

Good idea. I thought 1990 has motorized seatbelts & no airbags, but I'm not sure. You're the one who owns it, so DOES it have airbags?

If it has airbags, Honda typically uses bright yellow covering over the airbag wiring. So don't mess with bright yellow harnesses. You don't want that to explode in your face.

 

I attempted to replace the ignition switch but had little luck.....all I managed to do was take off the steering column cover and unscrew some wires (no worries....I know where everything goes back). I called a friend of mine that has a '92 Accord and said that the ignition switch is behind the key cylinder. One problem though....I put everything back together and now the key won't cycle all the way to the run position....it will only cycle to one or two positions (can't remember). Here are photos I took. The key cylinder is 20.00 new and switch is 50.00 new. I plan to replace both. Is it ok to just take out the old key cylinder and install the new one OR do I have to figure out why the key won't cycle all the way to run position first before I put in a new key cylinder?

 

Might pull the elect part and replace just that and see if the key "frees up". In the third pic you can see the two bolts/screws holding the elect part of the switch.

For the "key part" there are security bolts that will have to be removed.