Here is what’s wrong:
-Stalling
-Tachometer jumping
-Chugging
-Sometimes wont accelerate before stalling
-Sometimes wont start after sitting over night
-Driving in D3 sometimes helps, but not always
-Higher octane fuel doesn’t help, neither does a full tank

We thought that the fuel injectors were getting clogged, it wasn’t that. A new distributor, and battery were both put in. My car isn’t overheating so we don’t think its the catalytic converter. and it will restart so its probably not the alternator.

Could it be a wire? I am so sick of this car. Please help.

-Lauren

 

The tach jumping indicates an ignition problem, possibly plugs, plug wires, coil, or ignitor. Since distributor was replaced, plugs or plug wires seem more likely. Was distributor new, rebuilt, or new? A good test for wires is to spray w/ water from a spray bottle at night and look for sparks jumping from the wires. Any sparks indicate new wires are needed. If wires are good, plugs should be replaced w/ NGK OEM plugs.

Is Check Engine Light ON? If yes, then DTC needs to be extracted.

good luck

 

The distributer is brand new. check engine light is not on.

 

I was born in Warren and grew up in Hermitage, pa. Anyway...

You said that you got a new distributor. Did that come with a new cap, rotor, ignition control module, and/or coil?

When you turn the key to the II position, does the fuel pump turn on for a couple of secs. It has a faint whirling sound. You might have to listen at the gas cap and have someone else turn the key. Fuel isn't likely, but hearing the fuel pump atleast indicates the main fuel relay is working.

Did you verify that you have no spark before buying a new distributor? Put a spare spark plug (or pull one) and ground the body to the engine block. Try to start the car. You should see a bright blue/white spark.

When the car isn't starting, check for 12V at the yel/blk wire going to the distributor with the key in the II position. If you don't have 12V, the ignition switch is bad. Also clean and tighten battery connections on all ends.

Let us know what you find.

 

I would probably start my diagnosis by changing the plugs if you do not know how long they have been in the car. If the current plugs are not platinum, they are only rated to last 30k miles. Since they are a general maintenance item, that is why I would start with them. plus they are cheap. Make sure you use ONLY NGK or Denso(only if NGK are not available). DO NOT use Bosch plugs. If the car currenlty has Bosch plugs they should be removed immediately before you fry an ingnition component. Pull a plug out and see what brand it is. All you need is a spark plug socket ($5 or less at AutoZone) a socket extention, and a socket wrench.

 

Actually, what i did was take it back to the shop i go to, and i told them that my problem still wasnt fixed. so they ran a few tests and came to the conclusion that i was losing spark somewhere. first thing they did was put another new distributer on, and as it turns out the first new one they put on was faulty. so they didnt charge me for service or the new distributer. needless to say, im very happy its fixed.