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1994 Honda Accord EX no dash lights, no fuel pump noise, no power window

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Old Jun 11, 2020 | 05:28 PM
  #1  
jxQB0T5PG's Avatar
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Default 1994 Honda Accord EX no dash lights, no fuel pump noise, no power window

Hi, I am having trouble with my 1994 Honda Accord EX 2.2L. The problem happened a few days ago. The car will crank but won't start cause the fuel pump is not turning on. What's weird is that the power windows are also out and the signals, dash lights don't work. The hazard button works. What I mean by the dash light is that when you turn it to the [II] position, there is no check engine or oil lights coming on, you know the pre lights on the dash. This problem happened a week and a half ago but I unplugged the #15 fuse under driver side for fuel pump and plugged it back in, it started. Now it just won't start and no fuel pump noises. I checked all the fuses, under hood and driver side, they looked good. Car do have an after market alarm. I also tested the main fuel relay pump. Showed no power/volts to Black/Yellow(#3) when its ON/OFF key position. Battery is good.
 
Old Jun 11, 2020 | 06:48 PM
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Check under-dash Fuse No. 1 (10A).
 
Old Jun 11, 2020 | 07:20 PM
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jxQB0T5PG's Avatar
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Originally Posted by redbull-1
Check under-dash Fuse No. 1 (10A).
I checked it, no signs of a blown fuse.
 
Old Jun 11, 2020 | 07:52 PM
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Did you replace the fuel relay. If it started once that maybe the issue for the pump not working. I don't know why everything else is not working you may need to check your ECM
 
Old Jun 11, 2020 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Seanjordan20
Did you replace the fuel relay. If it started once that maybe the issue for the pump not working. I don't know why everything else is not working you may need to check your ECM
I took out a main fuel relay (brown) from an integra and tried it in the accord, it did not work.
 
Old Jun 11, 2020 | 09:48 PM
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At the ignition switch harness connector (Connector C906 - 7P brown connector) that plugs into the under-dash fuse box.

1. Measure voltage at terminal pin. no. 3 (white wire). This should be hot at all times.
2. With the ignition switch in the ON (II) position, there should be power at:
  • terminal pin no. 2 (yellow wire)
  • terminal pin no. 4 (white/blk wire)
  • terminal pin no. 6 (Blk/yel wire)

You'll want to backprobe the wires at the still plugged in C906 connector. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.







 
Old Jun 11, 2020 | 10:18 PM
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When you have strange electrical problems surrounding starting, dash lights, etc that are items related to the ignition switch and you have an alarm system installed, I would look at the alarm system first.

Failing alarm system can cause multiple electrical problems when it has electrical issues. Inspect the alarm for bad electrical connections and possibly look at the alarm circuit board for any obvious damaged components.
 
Old Jun 18, 2020 | 07:20 PM
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Heck the alarm first. After that I would bet ECU. They do Finney things when they go bad. I’m 2/2 now working on a 94 then a 96 accord with the fuel pump not priming issue and both ended up being the ECU. They both drive normally now.
 
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