1994 honda accord getting hot
That post was assuming you used a volt meter to test both wires going to the radiator fan.
When ever you test a circuit, one wire will have 12V and the other will be grounded. If you stick both volt meter leads into the electrical connector, and you read 12V then that circuit is good.
If you read zero volts, you have to test each wire individually to see if one wire is are missing voltage or the other wire is missing ground.
You test voltage on the non-black wire by touching the red probe of the meter to the non-black wire. Touch the black meter probe to a good ground (like a valve cover bolt). Then you see if you have 12V or not.
To test the black ground wire, you read resistance with the red meter lead on the black wire, and the black meter lead on ground (valve cover bolt). The resistance should be zero (or almost zero).
When ever you test a circuit, one wire will have 12V and the other will be grounded. If you stick both volt meter leads into the electrical connector, and you read 12V then that circuit is good.
If you read zero volts, you have to test each wire individually to see if one wire is are missing voltage or the other wire is missing ground.
You test voltage on the non-black wire by touching the red probe of the meter to the non-black wire. Touch the black meter probe to a good ground (like a valve cover bolt). Then you see if you have 12V or not.
To test the black ground wire, you read resistance with the red meter lead on the black wire, and the black meter lead on ground (valve cover bolt). The resistance should be zero (or almost zero).
so i just got an electrical tester and i think i figured it out... the coolant temp sensor has power and the fan has power...i looked at the fusees and realized one was blown...i think i blew it when i tried to buy pass the coolant temp sensor....so i replaced the fuse turned on the car and turned on the a/c.... so looks like my coolant temp switch is bad
Last edited by mehoff636; Sep 10, 2011 at 10:02 PM.
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