My 96 accord lx 5sp has developed a new problem. It will be running at speed then suddenly the tach drops to 0 and the car stops running. The car has been able to restart sometimes before coasting to a stop. I am thinking it is the ignition control module or coil. Anyone have similar problem or have good advice.

 

Stop by a parts store and have the codes scanned. The codes start with the letter P and have four numbers, like p1234. Your connector is behind your ash tray. I would also have them test the battery and alternator just to be sure those aren't the problems.

I would suggest disconnecting the battery cable and cleaning all ends of both battery cables. If you do this before having the codes scanned, any engine codes will be erased. You would want the car to stall out before getting the codes read.

Also, can you get the car to stall out by shaking the key while the engine is running?

 

I have done the code scan and the battery check. The car will crank after it cuts out, but it won't fire.

 

Sounds like an ignition failure...Likely the Ignitor/Coil or possibly a bad ignition switch. Put a timing light on one of the plug wires, crank the motor and see if there is any light visible at the plug. If there is, then the Ignitor/coil is good.
Try replacing the Ignition switch first as it is cheaper than the Ignitor/Coil.

 

Ignition switch? As in the key? Or th module under the distributor rotor? My ignition switch was changed not long ago thanks to attempted theft.

 

Electrical part of the switch is "kind of" known to fail. The contacts can get worn and with the heat of the current, and well, lose contact. A test for this, are you getting voltage to the BLK/YEL wire at the dist when the key in in the "on" position. Of course this test is done when the no start situation is happening.

 

Since your ignition/key switch is replaced, I would suspect the Ignitor/Coil in the distributor is at fault.

 

was it the lock assembly that was replaced or the lock and electrical switch that connects to the key tumbler.

 

Both have been changed. A friend of a friend is an acura tech says the ignitor should be changed

 

I agree with the tech, but if you have access to a timing light, you can verify the lack of spark from the ignitor...See post #4. The ignitor is available on line OEM Honda part for $128....Aftermarket also available for around $65. Personally, I would go with the OEM Honda part and know it will not strand you further down the road.