Hello:
I am new to this forum and first time poster. I own three other Honda a 1997 Del Sol, 2000 CR-V and 2006 Ridgeline. Familiar with the D- and B- series engines, but could use some help with the F-series, especially in what is the purpose of the Cam Balancer.
Anyway, the reason for my posting is that I am trying to help my mother -in-law caretaker a recent widower, literally her husband dropped dead on the job seriously.
The car is a 1995 Honda Accord LX with a built date of 08/94 automatic with a F22B2 engine. Last week I was called that steam was coming out of the hood, I advised her to allow the car to cool before doing anything to it, a neighbor help her to fill the radiator with anti-freeze, the car started back up with no problem until yesterday when she called again. The car suddenly shut off, she tried to restart it but it did not, it did crank over.
I towed the car to my house and began to troubleshoot the car. I did notice the CHECK ENGINE light was ON, but not notice the D4 light. I asked her how long the CEL has been ON. She told me that a mechanic told her it was to when the car needed to have the oil changed. So, anyway this is what I have done so far.
Removed, Cleaned and Lubed the Idle Air Control Valve (very dirty)
Removed, Cleaned and Lubed the Throttle body (some dirt)
Removed, Cleaned the Spark Plugs (no deposits normal wear)
Removed, Cleaned the Rotor and Cap (no cracks or excessive wear)
Checked if the Timing and Cam Balancer belt for alignment. (Perfect)
General Engine Inspection no problems noted.
Put everything back together and reconnected the negative battery lead, I went to attempt to start the car I noticed the CEL was ON and did not extinguish, I continued through the start and yes the engine did start, but it was shaking badly at idle, I accelerated up to 1500 rpm and allowed it to warm up during that time I noticed the D4 light started blinking. I tried to see if the rough idle went away, but it continued to shake and if rapidly accelerated the engine I would get a backfire out from the throttle body. I shut it down and went to read the error codes and this is what I got, the CEL light stay ON steady, but the D4 light had one long blink and four short blink. I take this is a code 14. Looking around for code definitions have not found any. I checked the fuel supply by loosening out the line at the fuel rail and when I put the key in the II position fuel comes out until the D4 light starts flashing and then it stops. Please, give me some constructive ideas.
Thanks

 

Code 14 can be a faulty ECM or or open/short in brn/wht FAS wire between D16 terminal (TCM terminal) and ECM. More likely a ECM fault.

However, suggest first resetting the ECM/TCM by pulling the BackUp fuse 39 (7.5A) in underhood fuse box. for 20 secs. Report what happens when you attempt to start.

Also suggest checking for spark to all spark plugs. A good check is a inductive timing light on each wire. No flash means no spark. Missing and backfire suggest a spark problem. Otherwise use a spark plug and check for spark to jump plug gap. A blue-white spark should be seen.

good luck

 

Tell the owner the check engine light turns on when the engine computer detects a problem. That light is not a maintenance reminder.

On the bottom of the speedometer, there is a maintenance reminder. It is reset by inserting a key into the slot to turn it green. The color changes after a set number of miles. I remember mine stopped working on my 95 accord.

As TexasHonda mentioned, the problem is likely the engine computer. If you search car-part.com, you can search junkyards by price or distance to find a cheap one nearby. A U-Pull-It type junkyard would be another good source for the ECU. Your ECU needs to be from a 94/95 Accord LX/DX with an automatic transmission. Any other ECU will not work properly.

 

I check the ignition with induction pick up timing light, and the negative lead was disconnected for more then an hour. I did notice the engine is running very rich because I accidentally knocked the PCV off and the engine smoothed out at idle and had good response up to 2000rpm then it went to lean.

 

Sounding like a lazy O2 sensor....assume there are no exhaust leaks.

 

update:
changed out the RZ0088 main relay for the fuel pump and ecu and swapped out the MAP sensor and got a major improvement. The Check Engine Light now goes out during the initial start of the engine but comes on after a few minutes, I get no error codes. The D4 light still comes on after a few minutes and constantly flashes. Getting better but out of the woods yet.

 

Recheck the codes. Tell us what codes the check engine light and the D4 lights flash. When you say you got no CEL codes, did the CEL just turn on and not blink?

 

One short blink = lock up clutch does not engage/disengage or unstable idle speed. Lockup control solenoid valve A

Two short blinks = lockup clutch does not engage. Lock up control solenoid valve B

Five short blinks = fails to shift other than 2nd and 4th gears, lock up clutch does not engage. Short in A/T gear position switch or wire.

Seven short blinks = fails to shift 1-4, 2-4 or 2-3 or stuck in 4th gear. Shift control solenoid valve A or wiring.

Eight short blinks = fails to shift, stuck in 1st or 4th. Shift control solenoid valve B or wiring.

Nine short blinks = Lockup clutch does not engage. Countershaft speed sensor or wiring.

One long blink and five short blinks = Transmission jerks hard when shifting. Mainshaft speed sensor or wiring.

Four long blinks = Lockup clutch does not engage/disengage or idle speed unstable. Faulty lockup control system.

Four long and one short blink = Fails to shift 1-4, 2-4 or 2-3 or stuck in 1st or 4th. Faulty shift control system. -