1995 Vtec Accord Skips while Idling,when warmed up
If I crank the car cold it's fine and I can drive right away no problem but as soon as it get warm it it starts Idling rough, USUALLY.
Sometimes I can stop at a red light and it won't start skipping but it usually will.
Plugs and wires are not old, and inspection of plugs found they all look the same.
Rotor and cap look good, barely any dirt, cleaned it and put it back.
It is not consistent, for instance yesterday I was noticing it seemed to go away at 1500 rpm and above and then 5 minutes later I could get it to 1500 rpm and it was skipping, weird.
Engine code is 12, but my EGR has been disconnected since 2003 and the mechanic put a screw in the vacuum hose to block it off.
Sometimes I can stop at a red light and it won't start skipping but it usually will.
Plugs and wires are not old, and inspection of plugs found they all look the same.
Rotor and cap look good, barely any dirt, cleaned it and put it back.
It is not consistent, for instance yesterday I was noticing it seemed to go away at 1500 rpm and above and then 5 minutes later I could get it to 1500 rpm and it was skipping, weird.
Engine code is 12, but my EGR has been disconnected since 2003 and the mechanic put a screw in the vacuum hose to block it off.
Is EGR valve still in place? If yes, it could provide a vacuum leak path. Probably not, but worth checking.
Are you losing any coolant? I had similar symptoms when my 94EX had a bad head gasket. It would occasionally idle rough and miss badly during a hot restart. It was losing a small amount of coolant. I pulled spark plugs and turned engine over to find a mini-geyser spray on one cylinder. New head gasket resolved.
Shop manual mentions ECU and MAP sensor fault as possible source of warm engine, rough idle problem.
EGR fault could mask engine operating in open loop where CEL would be on steady when checking for a code. Plugged EGR ports is usual reason for EGR fault. An easy fix to repair system. See DIY forum for guidance and youtube for videos.
Suggest checking engine compressions to look for a weak cylinder or possible valve leakage problem. Sometimes valve adjustment will stop idle missing.
good luck
Are you losing any coolant? I had similar symptoms when my 94EX had a bad head gasket. It would occasionally idle rough and miss badly during a hot restart. It was losing a small amount of coolant. I pulled spark plugs and turned engine over to find a mini-geyser spray on one cylinder. New head gasket resolved.
Shop manual mentions ECU and MAP sensor fault as possible source of warm engine, rough idle problem.
EGR fault could mask engine operating in open loop where CEL would be on steady when checking for a code. Plugged EGR ports is usual reason for EGR fault. An easy fix to repair system. See DIY forum for guidance and youtube for videos.
Suggest checking engine compressions to look for a weak cylinder or possible valve leakage problem. Sometimes valve adjustment will stop idle missing.
good luck
Just me but I would start with a good cleaning of the IACV and the throttle body.
Again to me, it sounds like the rpm's are dropping then coming back - are you seeing that on the tach?
EDIT: I see TX posted as I was typing
Again to me, it sounds like the rpm's are dropping then coming back - are you seeing that on the tach?
EDIT: I see TX posted as I was typing
Tex - EGR still in place. I had a head gasket problem a while back, it would run rough when first cranked and then be fine. I used a bottle of Seal-Up and that went away.
Now this has started and I tried taking the radiator cap off to see if the lack of pressure build up in the cooling system would affect the skipping, but it didn't. That's how I diagnosed the head gasket the first time, I took the cap off and ran the engine a bit, turned it off then let it sit overnight and when I cranked it it was fine, so I realized the built up pressure was forcing the coolant into a cylinder causing the skip the next morning.
Poor - I watched the RPM's , they only drop a little, maybe 100 RPM's or so and it seems to be because of the engine stumble.
Now this has started and I tried taking the radiator cap off to see if the lack of pressure build up in the cooling system would affect the skipping, but it didn't. That's how I diagnosed the head gasket the first time, I took the cap off and ran the engine a bit, turned it off then let it sit overnight and when I cranked it it was fine, so I realized the built up pressure was forcing the coolant into a cylinder causing the skip the next morning.
Poor - I watched the RPM's , they only drop a little, maybe 100 RPM's or so and it seems to be because of the engine stumble.
Well it ended up being a bad spark plug I guess. Changed all 4 all and all better.
Very surprising to me since it started all of a sudden one day and when I replaced the spark plug wires I inspected the plugs and they all looked fine, and were not that old. Is there much on the inside of the plug that can break down? If so I guess it did.
I've had previous plugs run until the hook on the end was almost worn away.
I changed the plugs in the wifes Jeep patriot, which are actually older, on the same day, it happens to use the exact same NGK V power plug, and the plugs coming out of the patriot looked no different. However the patriot was running fine and the Honda was not.
Guess you can't judge a spark plug by looks alone.
Very surprising to me since it started all of a sudden one day and when I replaced the spark plug wires I inspected the plugs and they all looked fine, and were not that old. Is there much on the inside of the plug that can break down? If so I guess it did.
I've had previous plugs run until the hook on the end was almost worn away.
I changed the plugs in the wifes Jeep patriot, which are actually older, on the same day, it happens to use the exact same NGK V power plug, and the plugs coming out of the patriot looked no different. However the patriot was running fine and the Honda was not.
Guess you can't judge a spark plug by looks alone.
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