I went out yesterday and found four things not working:

1. None of the 4 power windows work (23-250 in service manual)
2. The engine temperature gauge does not come up (23-138 in service manual)
3. The speedometer does not work. (23-132 in service manual) The VSS sounds like a toughie as it's under a lot
of stuff on the passenger side and I assume the sender just plugs into it?
4. The clock does not work. (23-218 in service manual)

Update: I now have the service manual pages - I think I should start with the speedometer tomorrow, although I should first check ground G401 as it seems to be pretty common to the stuff that failed and I did NOT replace
that ground 2 years ago. Hmpph, maybe? 30% chance? I also know that the speed sensor is near the temperature sensor. But the clock? Hmm?

Two years ago, I had to rewire much of the inside of the car and it took me 31 days due to animals that had chewed through the wires.
This new situation may or may not be due to them. But the fact that three suddenly stopped at the same time suggests that one of the
problems (perhaps speedometer) is affecting the other. I can't say as I don't know enough. I DO know that I will need to check grounds
G401 - G404, particularly G401 and G403. I don't think that this is a fuse or relay issue but I will continue checking them. I've started
that and so far I've found nothing fuse-wise. But I will do a more thorough check ASAP.

So I wonder where to begin. And I also wonder - if I were to bypass the connection from the relay under the hood, perhaps I could either
use a bypass ground or a bypass battery voltage or both. I am almost sure it's not the master switch. It's just some wiring problem as
I had two years ago, only with other systems being chewed through. Now, it's also possible that it's the speedometer cable or something,
it's not impossible that something was pulled on by some tree branch or whatever while driving.

I have the schematics for my car so at least I can begin reading chapter 23-250, etc.. I'm not worried about having the right service manual.

But I'm wondering, should I try to fix this or just develop a bypass. And if I bypass (at first I mean, just to get the windows going up and down), would
it be better to do each window one at time, or should I try to simply get power to the master switch by testing the ground and power coming
in. One quick question that comes up - should I measure the voltage at the GRN/WHT and pray that it's not getting there, then just bypass
that. I don't know how hard it is to get to the G401, page 23-25 - it's kind of up above? the under-dash fuse box on the left. And I guess G403 is the one I repaired two years ago, page 23-27, it's on the right. I can get to this stuff if I strain a bit so I will eventually check them.

But wow, this one is going to be tiring due to the bending my body in there. I have to get psyched up for this. G404 and G405 are in the middle
of the car and probably not involved.

Well, any ideas if this is just the speedometer messing everything else up, I'd appreciate it. I realize it's hard when you're not used to having
animals running in and out of your car. I keep meaning to pull my back panels and put rubber grommets in to block them. Just hadn't gotten that done.

I have not seen MUCH evidence of chewing this time other than a tiny bit in the rear where there are holes they can climb through but I fixed
those a couple weeks ago.

Well, wish me luck, and thanks for any advice.

The car runs fine, and by the way, I know of one other Honda owner, who had exactly the same thing happened, and he was NOT able to diagnose it. His was a 1993 Honda Accord.

 

Tomorrow's plan:
1. Check ground G401 and possibly G403.
2. If they're ok, inspect No. 1 10A fuse in under-dash. I did not
check this today so that can be done. Fuel gauge (and other lights and instruments) are on same line as that fuse so it's doubtful that it's the fuse.
3. Pull the VSS 3-P connector off and turn ignition on.
See if I have battery voltage across YEL and BLK.
For 3., I will need to unhook the air-hose so I can reach down and get
at the connector. The speed sensor is probably ok so I won't need a bunch of
extenders and a socket.

For locations and diagrams I'm adding 23-124 and 23-134.

 

I need a continuity tester to buzz out the wires from the firewall in to the car.

 

Car part stores have simple multi-meters for pretty cheap. That's a tool that'll be useful all over the place.

 

Yesterday, I found a continuity checker I had bought during the last disaster so hopefully it will buzz things out.