I have a 1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cyl VTECH. Check engine light is on, the code came up P1166 and P1167. Replaced the primary O2 sensor with an aftermarket one we got on EBAY. Had light turned off, it came back on. Code is now reading P1167. Checked fuses, all are good. Could it be I need the more expensive O2 sensor? Or is it something else? Getting frustrated, don't really have the funds to take it to a garage and it is overdue on inspection because of this issue. Any Ideas?? Thanks

 

Those codes are for the air/fuel ratio sensor, so a regular narrow-band O2 sensor will not work.

There are plenty of threads on this and other forums regarding this.

 

I did see the other threads. I'm not sure what the air/fuel ratio sensor is. Do I need to get the more expensive O2 sensor and not the after market one?

 

The air/fuel ratio sensor is a wide-band type of O2 sensor, which is the more expensive one. You can buy aftermarket; but, it needs to be an air/fuel ratio sensor and performs similar to the OEM one.

Denso is the OEM brand.

 

Thank you so much for the info. I'll put the money out for the expensive one and save myself more aggravation.

 

I have a 2000 Honda Accord Sedan EX 4-cyl. F23A4 ULEV VTEC
I have 190,000 miles on the car.

I just had the P1166 and P1167 check engine light come on. Since the car is so old, I decided to replace both O2 sensors.

I did extensive research and come up with a solution that worked at a cheap price.
Go to the Denso website and lookup your O2 sensor parts (OEM for Honda)
http://www.densoaftermarket.com/catalog/

I went with the OE Style to avoid potential problems with the universal.

For my car it listed 2 Upsteam (on manifold) options.
234-9014 and 234-9025 I researched on the web and b/c my car is an EX in this year it's supposed to be 234-9025. I heard other people purchase the 234-9014 and the engine light did not go away.

For the downstream (catalytic converter) I chose the Denso part number 234-4621 b/c it is OE and I have a ULEV, not SULEV.

After I replaced both sensors and reset the check engine light it did not come back on.

I bought both parts off of ebay
$55 with s/h for the 234-9025 and
$32 with s/h for the 234-4621

It took me about 15-20 minutes to replace both just b/c I had to get the car on jacks to get the one by the catalytic converter. Hope this helps someone.

 

Actually both the 1166 and 1167 faults refer to the heater circuit of the sensor. So I'd check wiring, connectors and fuses of the heater circuit.

 

Yes you are correct. I forgot to mention I already checked my fuses and wires and didn't see anything wrong with them.

 

Check heater circuit resistance at the ECU/harness connection. If resistance is good, then ECU is likely cause of the code; an internal circuit fault.

We have noticed more ECU failures in 94-07 accords recently, and your vintage may be reaching the time for failures to begin.

good luck

 

I'd get the multimeter on ohms, and check O2 resistance between 1-2 I believe (heater pins) on the O2 connector - disconnect first. If that checks I'd get the meter on volts DC and turn the key to II position and check volts on harness side, you should see 12 volts.