I tried to start my 2000 Honda Accord V4 EX and it kept reving but wouldn't start. I tired jump starting my car with another car and it still wouldn't start. I don't think it's my battery because the lights still go on and I can rev it for a long time without it stopping. Does anyone know what the problem could be and how I can fix it?

 

Take a look under the hood and tell us if you see two banks of cylinders or one. If you have one row of cylinders it's an in-line 4. If you have two rows of cylinders it's a V6.

A no start condition almost always results from lack of fuel or lack of ignition. First turn keyswitch to ON (not start) and listen carefully w/ no radio or external noise. You should hear a couple of slight clicks from under the dash and a soft whir of the fuel pump from the rear (fuel tank). This would confirm you likely have fuel pressure and suggest and ignition fault.

If you have above fuel pump action, next check is to confiirm no-spark by spraying throttle body cleaner or starter fluid into the air intake (open air filter box) and attempting to start. If no hint of engine starting, lack of ignition is confirmed.

Also notice when you turn your keyswitch to ON, does the Check Engine Light and Alt lights come on and stay on? If not, the keyswitch assy is faulty and no starting power is sent to ignition system.

Check above and repost for help.

good luck

 

I took it to a mechanic. He told me that the electrical Computer unit is bad. I asked him how much the piece costs and he said it's around $1,150 for this Honda Accord 4 cylinder 2000 that I have. I verified by calling the dealership and asked them how much an ECU with my Vin number was and they concurred on the same price. Is this a standard problem that Honda is having on this particular model? Is this an easy job or am I better off taking it to a dealership? Could also somebody recommend a good mechanic that I can tow to around Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, NY? Also, does anyone know of any discounts for mentioning this forum? Thank You

 

Honda ECUs are pretty durable, but can fail. I wonder how your mechanic verified that the ECU was shot? Did you do the tests that Texashonda suggested?

To save $$, I would buy a used one from a junkyard or buy one on E-bay. Replacing the ECU is a pretty simple DIY job. Labor would be pretty cheap if you had a mechanic do it.

 

If it is the computer, get one from a salvage/junk yard. You may need new keys for the new immobilizer...

 

I am worried about buying the part from a junkyard. What if the part goes after the companies warranty? What if i get a bad part or it doesn't fit? How do I tell if the mechanic is lying to me? What can I tell him to try to catch him bluffing? It seems kind of odd for him to tell me it's the most expensive part in this type of situation. Plus my car is is only at 52,000 miles also. I only bought the car about a year ago from a private seller.

 

Just because it won't start doesn't make it the computer, that would be the last thing I'd check.

Take it to another shop see what they say.

 

Your concerns are the reason I and many others DIY, however if that is not possible, your only option is to find a mechanic you trust. This can be done by checking w/ friends, co-workers, auto parts stores, etc and checking their reputation. Finally, I would check BBB to see if shop attempts to resolve complaints. Any shop is likely to have a few complaints, and if they attempt to resolve that is adequate. A number of unresolved complaints is reason to keep looking.

A used ECU should cost <$100, so you could afford not to worry about warranty. Check car-part.com near your zipcode to find a part. Let your new mechanic help. I've yet to see a well documented case of failed ECU, but I'm sure it must happen. That's why you need someone you can trust.

good luck

 

My mechanic said the OBD reader doesn't come with any error code at all, that is why I have to buy a new ECM. Then, I went to Autozone to pickup an ECM. I explained the problem to the specialist and he told me it doesn't sound like your car needs a new ECM, your alarm probably just needs to be reset b/c of the fail/safe. He said let me give a call to your mechanic and pretended to the mechanic that he was a relative of mine. So the guy from Autozone called my mechanic and asked him the error code. He gave the Autozone guy the same bull, then he told him to reset the alarm, my mechanic said he did. The Autozone guy told me he was lying as you can't just reset the alarm without your code. He said there is a switch to press it, low and behold when I went to my mechanic he gave me a whole story that it's a big process to get to my alarm, he has to disassemble the dash board. I then said let me use my spare key, which didn't work. I noticed a cut wire on the floor and said what the hell is this. He said he was doing work for 2 days, that's why. He then went over to his car, which happened to be the same make and model. He showed me that my Green Key light or the check engine light is not even coming up on my car when I start try to start my car. Can someone please tell me what I should do now?