2001 Honda Accord EX F23A4 SULEV P1167 P1164
#1
05-20-2018, 06:38 AM
2001 Honda Accord EX F23A4 SULEV P1167 P1164
Hello everyone, one of the many things I have to repair on my car is related to these two codes. My original oxygen sensor pulled codes P1166 and P1167. But I replaced it with Denso 234-9014. Cleared the codes, they went away for maybe 30 minutes. When I read them again they were P1167 and P1164. I cleared them once again and same deal. 30 minutes and the lights back on with the same codes. With the old o2 sensor, the car ran a little rough at idle, but then while at high speeds it was fine. Now the car runs completely smooth while at idle but when I take off, it feels like it’s surging or slightly bucking and sometimes has very little power regardless of how hard the acceleration is.
I have checked everything that was recommended to check in all of the other threads I have searched and read through. I have YET to find an answer for this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This check engine light being on is driving me nuts! Thank you very much.
I have checked everything that was recommended to check in all of the other threads I have searched and read through. I have YET to find an answer for this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This check engine light being on is driving me nuts! Thank you very much.
#3
05-20-2018, 06:41 PM
Where exactly is the relay? I found the fuse panel on the passenger side and replaced fuse number 6 with another 20amp fuse and I’m still having this issue. Could it possibly be the sensor I purchased that is bad? I’ll be honest, I found it on eBay for around 38 bucks. The seller assured me it was a genuine Denso part. And the number is the exact cross reference listed on multiple websites for the SULEV engine. 234-9014.
#5
05-20-2018, 07:55 PM
fuse number 6 was not blown but I replaced it as a desperate attempt to fix the issue. I checked the power from the plug on the vehicles harness, I am actually not getting any power to the o2 sensor with the key off, on and the car running the voltage reads 0. The ohms read 1.2 from the sensor plug. I don’t understand how the car has a smoother idle now if the o2 sensor isn’t getting power. When I clear the code it stays off for a good 30 miles. With the old sensor when I cleared the code it would come back on immediately after starting the engine. Am I doing something wrong? As in testing the voltage and ohms wrong? Is there more to it than fuse number 6? I’m really debating on just picking up the genuine factory part from the dealer or from my local auto parts store to see if that fixes the issue.
#6
05-20-2018, 09:57 PM
I doubt your new a/f sensor is the problem. Plus you mentioned no power to the sensor, so you should start troubleshooting that.
The red wire to the a/f sensor should have 12V for the heater circuit when the engine is running. I think it will have 12V with just the key in the II position with the engine not running.
There is a relay to power your a/f sensor. I attached a picture of the location. If the taillight relay next to the a/f sensor is identical, swap the relays. See if your a/f sensor gets power to the red wire and check if your tailights stop working. That is a quick way to rule out a relay.
The red wire to the a/f sensor should have 12V for the heater circuit when the engine is running. I think it will have 12V with just the key in the II position with the engine not running.
There is a relay to power your a/f sensor. I attached a picture of the location. If the taillight relay next to the a/f sensor is identical, swap the relays. See if your a/f sensor gets power to the red wire and check if your tailights stop working. That is a quick way to rule out a relay.
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