One month ago I got a check engine light and I was told to replace the cannister purge solenoid which I did. Today the check engine light came on with a P1457 code. The guy at AutoZone said it was probably a gas cap problem (Which it shouldn't be. I haven't refilled the tank in a while). What should I do next? And how do you clear the check engine light in my vehicle. Thanks.

 

You can clear the code by pulling out the clock back light fuse, its behind the cover to the right of the glove box when you open the passenger door.
Look at the diagram, it's a 7.5a fuse.
Pull out the fuse for a minute and put it back in.

 

Thank you. I cleared the code. It hasn't reappeared yet.

 

Code came back. Went to shop. They say its the evap vent shut valve.

 

There's a half-dozen solenoids that can trigger that code. Was the purge solenoid tested before you replaced it?

The vent-shut valve is a very common reason for setting that code, but I'd check it to make sure its bad before replacing it.

 

They did a smoke test.

 

Well, 2 possible things here...

Maybe both solenoids were bad and after they replaced the purge solenoid they assumed there were no other problems.

Or maybe the purge solenoid was never the problem in the first place??

 

Midas replaced the purge solenoid after getting the code initially. I bought the part from Car Quest for $55 and they installed it for $25. Midas was going to charge $155 for the same part that they were getting from Car Quest. They told me to buy it and they would install it. I got the code again in Mid-August. I clear it, and it comes back a week later. I have a lifetime wheel alignment with Firestone and had that service performed on the day the code returned. They are the ones who did the smoke test and will be replacing the evap vent shut valve.

 

Just replaced mine in about an hour and it fixed my P1457, no other symptoms. Asked the dealer and he told me (parts guy) that for that code his guys always ordered and replaced both the vent shut valve and the canister. I had read of the troubles people have separating the two given the condition of the bolts joining them so I thought I'd take a chance and just get the valve. Two bolts a couple hoses removed and I had the canister in my hands. I had to use a set of vise grips to get the screws out, but saved $80 over replacing both parts. Worth the effort for me...and the code has been gone for a over a week of regular driving.
Mine's a '98, but I suspect the fix will work on yours too given the info you've provided.
Good luck,
Patrick

 

Cool cpberry1. My code cleared a few driving cycles after the smoke test. I think I'm going to hold off another week before replacing it. Thanks for the info.