So we got the new key, but somehow were able to find the old key too

Now should we use the old key or new one or it really doesn't matter?

Also, while trying to put the timing belt back on is a real PITA, while doing that crank is always moving from it's TDC position. Any trick which we are missing for putting the timing belt on? Keep in mind tensioner spring hasn't been installed yet.

Thanks for helping out guys

 

I'd use the new key, but you can reuse the old one if it is not damaged. I can't remember if the key is directional or not. Does the key look the same on both ends, or are the ends different?

Install the spark plugs if they are not already installed. The engine compression should help keep the crank in place.

 

Old key does not like it's damaged, though it does have marks on both ends, metal to metal contact maybe?

To me personally, key diameter on both end looks the same, but anyway I can double check/confirm?

Spark plugs are still in the head and haven't removed em. Any other way to keep the crank in place?

Thanks for helping out.

 

Alright guys, so we finally put everything together.

Aligned both timing marks, put the cam key back, tightened everything to the specs. Checked cam/crank timing marks several times.

When we tried to start the car, its still cranking and not starting. We can smell fuel burning, but again it's NOT starting. Not sure, if it's relevant but fuel gauge just goes to 'E' while cranking, as soon as cranking is stopped, it comes back to almost 'F' mark.

Guess, again back to square one, what would be the possible next steps?

Please help and advise

 

You might want to check the compression......worried that when the cam gear "slipped" there might have been valve damage.

 

Thanks so much PM. Compression test is next on the to do list. Any ideas about fuel gauge going down randomly?

 

I'm not sure how the electronics of the gauge are set, this may be normal. I'll try to remember to pay attention in my TSX when I leave for work tomorrow morning.

I am leaning towards what poorman said about checking compression. From your description, I thought that valve damage was a definite possibility.

 

Thanks so much PA. Totally understand about compression test.

BTW, if there is a valve damage, what are usually symptoms of it? Same as what I am describing?

 

Thanks so much PA. Totally understand about compression test.

BTW, if there is a valve damage, what are usually symptoms of it? Same as what I am describing?

 

Valve damage results in loss of compression (that's why you test it). Often the damage is bad enough that when the starter turns over the engine, you can clearly hear the difference.

But I suppose that slightly-bent valves can have correspondingly slight symptoms? It doesn't perfectly fit your description but might be part of the problem?