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2006 Accord won't start, flashing D and green key

Old Sep 8, 2019 | 03:30 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ucf
I've double checked those fuses and tested every other fuse in the under hood and drivers fusebox as well. None of them have blown. I didn't use a fuse light like that video, but I used my voltmeter to measure no resistance on every one
A voltmeter would be use to check/test voltage reading, not resistance. Read/measure and report the voltage at those fuses.

Did you also check the wires and connection at Ground G101?
 
Old Sep 8, 2019 | 03:49 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by redbull-1
A voltmeter would be use to check/test voltage reading, not resistance. Read/measure and report the voltage at those fuses.

Did you also check the wires and connection at Ground G101?
I originally set it to ohms and measured across the contacts on every fuse I could access, and pulled out the fuses that didn't have contacts and measured them that way.

I now measured the interior #19 fuse and have 12.5V on both contacts

The under hood #8 does not appear to have contact pads on it as its a 40A square fuse... how do I check voltage on that?

I looked at G101 ground wires and visually everything appears fine and tight.
 
Old Sep 8, 2019 | 03:54 PM
  #13  
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Under-hood Fuse No. 8 is 15A. It is a regular mini fuse.

 
Old Sep 8, 2019 | 03:59 PM
  #14  
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Sorry about that, realized right after I posted and before you replied even I got the wrong one, checked #19 under the hood too. #8 under the hood is indeed a 15A blade fuse and is testing 12.4V on both sides of it as well.

Also, my OBD reader does beep and gets power from the port, and can even short the SCS pins to give you the flash codes, but fails on trying to communicate to ECU, according to the message from the Launch EzDiag app. It is a Bluetooth bidirectional adapter that is powered by the car.
 

Last edited by ucf; Sep 8, 2019 at 04:03 PM.
Old Sep 10, 2019 | 08:39 PM
  #15  
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So in case anyone else comes across this, I decided to go to a junk yard and get a similar computer for $50. After installing it, I used the Launch EzDiag tool to reprogram it to put in the VIN and program the immobilizer. Car starts now.
 

Last edited by ucf; Sep 10, 2019 at 10:11 PM.
Old Sep 12, 2019 | 10:53 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ucf
So in case anyone else comes across this, I decided to go to a junk yard and get a similar computer for $50. After installing it, I used the Launch EzDiag tool to reprogram it to put in the VIN and program the immobilizer. Car starts now.
Do you have a link for that tool?
 
Old Sep 12, 2019 | 11:29 AM
  #17  
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I bought it on ebay, even though it said it shipped from China it did ship from California, me being in Florida took about a week to arrive:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Launch-iCar...53.m2749.l2649
If the link stops working, the tool is Launch iCarScan, its a bluetooth dongle. Make sure the listing includes at least a few modules of the software for free, and includes the adapter. Some listings only include the dongle, and some only include the software modules. The number of software modules included seems to have some variation on each listing. I bought it for $300 with 10 software modules. The EzDiag software is free, but each module is $50. The above bundle includes 10 software modules free though. I believe you'll need to use 2 of them to do the programming, the immobilizer/key module and the Honda module, although you might be able to use just the Honda module (I didn't try, some people say you can). The other 8 you should be able to use for any other vehicle you own... I think (but I'm not sure) you have to pick everything at the beginning, if you don't pick 10 modules when you redeem the code, you seem to lose them.

You'll need to download the EzDiag app from the Play Store after buying this tool from the store. There are a few bundles of the same tool with different softwares.

Once you're setup and downloaded the modules, turn your vehicle on ON but do not try to start it... connect to your vehicle with the tool, choose Honda > 16 pin > System selection > Engine system/PGM > special functions > Write VIN . Input your VIN and follow the directions with the key. After that, choose System selection > Immobilizer > Immobilizer setup > Replace ECU/PCM and follow the directions. Then choose Immobilizer status. It should say "Ready" but mine didn't. I then picked Reset ECU. Then checked it again and it was Ready. Then choose Lost all keys... and follow the directions again. These directions are timed, with 10 seconds to complete each step. I'd recommend to just do 1 key initially to test it out. Online it said its pretty normal to need to try to program a key twice (it will ask you when it thinks its done if the green key light is flashing), but it worked first try for me there.

One thing to note, when you're adding additional keys, its going to want an already programmed key first, then ask you to put in the new one, turn it a bunch of times, but its going to ask for the original one again after you used the other one 3 or 4 times... don't use the new key or it won't work. Also, might not be a bad idea clear all the DTCs with it before you start, they're from the other vehicle it came out of.
 
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