My 2007 accord has about 130k miles and is in very good shape. It's the "value priced" model with 4 cyl, 5 speed and a/c. The a/c worked fine til last week. The a/c light on the dash goes on when you push the a/c button, but the a/c clutch does not engage. I checked fuses under the dash and all looks good. When I turn on the defroster, the a/c light comes on, but the a/c does not turn on.

Where should I begin?

 

Does the blower work and push air of any temperature through the vents?

Go to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Under the 03-07 accords, there is a link on how to check HVAC codes. Post any HVAC codes on here.

 

Thanks for the idea, but neither of the options listed work with my VP model. My hvac system is different from both of the ones listed in the DIY thread.

I do get air through all the vents - the heater works fine and the buttons affect air flow correctly (i.e. i can get air on my feet, the defroster, etc, but pushing the button). Any other ideas?

Thanks

 

I have a scanguage II to track my mileage. This has a scan feature. I ran the scan feature and it didn't come up with any codes. Any idea if HVAC codes would show up on the scanguage?

I found a way to test - I held the recirc button and pushed the defroster button 5 times. The recirc light lit up twice, the the hvac cycled through defrost/heat/face, and turned itself off. Was this a code of some sort?

Thanks

 

Your code reader may only read the OBD2 codes for emissions, safety, etc...

The HVAC has its own set of codes and is not standard. Right now, I am in the process of transferring the files to my new computer. I don't have my 03-07 manual transferred. Can you post a picture of your radio/controls so I can see what procedure in the manual will work for you? I won't be able to do this until tomorrow after work.

 

From factory service manual:

1) Turn ignition switch Off.
2) Turn Fan Switch Off.
3) Set Temperature control dial to Max Cool
4) Turn ignition switch On
5) Press & hold recirculation control button
6) While holding recirculation button down, press rear window defogger button 5 times w/i 10 secs.
> The recirculation button will blink 2 times indicating self diagnostic mode.
> If there is a problem, the recirculation indicator wil blink the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). DTC's are 1-8.
7) Turn ignition switch Off to cancel self diagnostics.

Code 1 - open in air mix motor circuit
Code 2 - short in air mix motor circuit
Code 3 - Problem in air mix control linkage, door, or motor
Code 4 - open/short in the mode control motor circuit
Code 5 - Problem in the mode control linkage, doors, or motor
Code 6 - Problem in the blower motor circuit
Code 7 - open in the evaporator temp sensor circuit
Code 8 - short in the evaporator temp sensor circuit

A fairly common problem w/ all AC systems w/ clutch driven compressor is worn clutch plate allowing gap to increase to the point where clutch will not engage.

You can confirm this fault by rapping (CAREFULLY!) the clutch plate w/ hefty stick when AC is commanded. If clutch immediately engages, excess clutch gap is confirmed.

Alternatively, you can check for 12V to the clutch connector (single wire) when AC is commanded. If 12V and no clutch engagement, either excessive clutch gap or open clutch coil.

good luck

 

Thanks Texas Honda and PA honda - It appears that I'm not getting any codes (blinks twice, then cycles through the settings, but no more blinking). I tapped the compressor with a stick while a/c turned on and the compressor clutch did not engage. I checked the single blue wire to the a/c compressor and there is no power.

I checked the fuse under the dash and the fuses on the drivers side of the engine compartment and all look good -even those big 40a square fuses in the engine compartment. Any other ideas?

 

Check compressor relay (swap nearby identical relay or buy new one). Faulty relay would result in no power to compressor.

Check hi/low pressure switch resistance w/ VOM. It should show zero resistance (closed switch),...if the system is charged. If it's open (infinite resistance), you may have lost the charge (damaged condensor or other leak). Hi/lo pressure switch is near the compressor on high pressure line near bottom of radiator. It will have a 2-wire electrical connector attached.

good luck

 

Texas Honda- is the "compressor relay" one of the big square fuse type things in the engine compartment fuse box?

I switched around all of the different large fuse/relays in the engine compartment and it made no difference. I also put in a new fuse in the foot panel fuse box that indicated "a/c" and again, no difference.

I double checked the little blue wire going to the compressor and it still has no power to it. Would the hi/low pressure switch come into play even if this had no power?

Thanks again.

 

Yes, hi/lo switch senses system pressure and if very low (leaked away), it opens, and this signal causes ECU to interuppt compressor relay and disable compressor. This avoids damage from no refrigerant which means no lubricant is carried to the compressor.

Time to check system pressures w/ a gauge or manifold set. Only low side pressure is necessary since system is not running and entire system pressure will be same.

If pressure is very low perhaps < 30 psi, the pressure switch will be open indicating low charge.

Unless you intend to DIY, this would be time to get professional help. If you want to DIY, your next step would be to purchase a shop manual for your vehicle. Check automanualsource.com or seller by that name on ebay. For $21.99 you get an emanual that is OEM and easy to use.

good luck