2009 Accord break questions
I have about 32,500 miles on my Accord and I need to get new pads and to either machine my existing rotors or purchase new ones. I called the local STS and the manager was explaining that instead of machining the rotors that he recommends purchasing new ones as the ones that Honda uses are prone to warping. Not sure if that's true or not but I do have an issue with the steering wheel shaking when I'm braking on the highway. Not sure if he's just trying to get me to buy new rotors to spend more $$$ or not. He gave me a price quote of 4 new pads and I think 4 new rotors (could be just the front two though) for $299. which is much cheaper than Honda wanted. Not sure what to do..
Also in regards to the break pads, should I get ceramic this time around?
Also in regards to the break pads, should I get ceramic this time around?
Brakes (not breaks).
The price for $299 is probably just front rotors, and front and rear pads, which is not bad.
I also recommend replacing the front rotors instead of machining.
The front pads generally last a lot longer compared to the rear pads. But, if the rotors are being changed, you should replace the pads.
It's up to you on ceramic pads or not.
The price for $299 is probably just front rotors, and front and rear pads, which is not bad.
I also recommend replacing the front rotors instead of machining.
The front pads generally last a lot longer compared to the rear pads. But, if the rotors are being changed, you should replace the pads.
It's up to you on ceramic pads or not.
Splitting a hair here (splitting a hare is messy unless you're making stew); you're asking about "brakes" not "breaks" (which are what you take when you eat your lunch at work).
As a general rule, all manufacturers these days make their rotors as thin as possible to reduce unsprung weight; better for ride, handling, and fuel economy. With that said, I always buy new rotors when I do a brake job, and the fact that your current rotors are already exhibiting either hot spots or warping, means you shouldn't even consider having them turned.
As for organic/semi-metallic/ceramic/exotic materials in your brake pads, they all have their benefits and drawbacks; I generally stick to organic/semi-metallic and avoid ceramic pads. Why? In my experience, ceramic pads often need to be well warmed up to "bite", and I've found that the first application of brakes after a long highway run, or driving through a puddle, the pads have an unnerving latency before you start to feel a good braking effect.
As a general rule, all manufacturers these days make their rotors as thin as possible to reduce unsprung weight; better for ride, handling, and fuel economy. With that said, I always buy new rotors when I do a brake job, and the fact that your current rotors are already exhibiting either hot spots or warping, means you shouldn't even consider having them turned.
As for organic/semi-metallic/ceramic/exotic materials in your brake pads, they all have their benefits and drawbacks; I generally stick to organic/semi-metallic and avoid ceramic pads. Why? In my experience, ceramic pads often need to be well warmed up to "bite", and I've found that the first application of brakes after a long highway run, or driving through a puddle, the pads have an unnerving latency before you start to feel a good braking effect.
Last edited by shipo; Jun 23, 2014 at 02:02 PM.
Really? Hmmm, my experience is just the opposite; rear pads on my cars typically last two to three times longer than front pads.
On my 2009 Accord, my front pads could have went 100,000 miles. I changed the fronts at 85,000 due to the front rotors shuddering when braking at high speeds.
However, even on my previous 5th generation Accord, the fronts still lasted longer than the rears.
Last edited by redbull-1; Jun 23, 2014 at 02:27 PM. Reason: first nine production 2010 (VIN 000001 thru 000009)
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