Good Day,

I have a 2016 Accord EXL and I’m having issues with the trunk release on the fob and also with the button at the rear of the trunk lid. When I push the trunk release button under the lid it beeps but the lock doesn’t open. This happens with both the fob and the trunk button.

The valet switch in the glove box is in the correct position.

TIA

 

May be due to a faulty trunk lid latch switch/actuator.

1. Remove a few clips on the trunk lid panel to access the electrical connector.
2. Unplug the 3P connector.
3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on the orange wire terminal of the harness connector when the Fob button is depressed. If there is voltage on the orange wire, it means power is getting to the actuator.

The trunk lid latch switch can also be tested for continuity. When disconnected, in the open position, there should be continuity between terminal pin 1 and pin 2. In the closed position, there should be no continuity between terminal pin 1 and pin 2. Pin 1 is where the Wht wire terminal would plug in if connected; Pin 2 is where Blk wire terminal would plug into, and Pin 3 is where Orn wire terminal would plug into.

 

Thanks so much, I attempted to test this today it looks like I have continuity at the actual switch I should say the latch but I don’t seem to have power going to the connector. Perhaps I did it wrong but I couldn’t get a reading. When I connected my multimeter the pigtail I couldn’t get a reading but all the sudden my car started beeping crazily. Not sure what that was about. I did some further research thinking that it could be a fuse but I believe the fuse for that is the same as all the rest of the fuses for the doors. I’m kind of stumped right now. When I connected my multimeter to the pigtail I connected to the red and white.

 

It is a 3P connector to the trunk lid latch switch/actuator. The wire colors are white (terminal no. 1), black (terminal no 2), and orange (terminal no. 3). You want to test for power on the orange wire.

 

Ok, I used a probe... doesn’t look like there is power to the orange. When I plugged the 3P connector back in the car the alarm went off.

 

Hey there...I just tested the circuit again when plugged into the latch assembly. I managed to get a reading on the orange form the back of the connector...so does that mean I have to replace the latch assembly?

On a side note, there appears to be constant power to the orange, not just when I push the button on the remote.

Again TIA