hello everyone. i'm thinking of picking up a 1989 honda 4 door accord lx from a friend as my beater car. it has sat a fair amount as it only has 70K miles on it. i have it now for a trial period but it always dies when i hit the brakes. rpm drops way down, it revs a couple of times then just dies. it only does it when going from driving, not while standing still so it may be something related to downshifting? if i put it in neutral when braking it doesn't do it so... seems like a sensor or some sort of idle control isn't functioning correctly. also, the tach recently reads higher than actual engine rpm, always 2.5k or more unless dropping to nearly nothing when it's doing the surging after braking - my friend says he had neither of these problems so they may both be new issues... maybe related?" i thought of just replacing all vacuum hoses in case it's a vacuum related issue but OMG - there must be 100ft worth of hose in this thing... lol

 

From your description, the torque converter lock-up is not releasing as you come to a stop. This chokes the engine down, much like not disenaging manual clutch as you brake to a stop. You can disable the lockup solenoid and see if the problem is prevented.

You may need to download the 89 Accord manual from links in post Online Manuals in DIY forum. I believe the manual is mislabeled as "89 Accord Secan". This manual will show where the LU solenoid is on the trans. This may cause the Check Engine Light to come on, but go ahead and try driving. You can reset the ECU to clear the code later.

The problem could be a sticking LU solenoid, that is not closing when voltage is removed. Suggest removing, cleaning, and testing the solenoid before replacing, if the problem is confirmed.

good luck

 

Good starting places from TX.

I'd like to know more about the tach? Blue wire from the coil goes to the tach and fuel pump relay - not to be confused with the "Main Relay" you hear about, this is a carb'd model....trust me.

Then I'd check the fuel level in the carb bowl- there is a sight glass on the drivers side of the carb.

 

thanks for the replies, sorry so slow to get back. i feel like a noob but i can't seem to find the lockup... i found a manual online but maybe i'm looking at the wrong side of the trans or something... should i pull the air cleaner or the underside shrouds to see it better?

it's on the passenger side right?

i'll check the fuel level soon also.

in the manual i have it looks like the lockup has a raised area in an "l shape" on the body of the lockup but when i see the unit on a 1990+ it's got 2 round solenoid bodies on it so... i'm having a hard time finding info on the 89, when websearching virtually everything is about 1990 & newer...

the car is clean under the hood & doesn't appear that any hacks have had a go at it so all the wiring is going the right places. it does look like someone probed the tack wire though as the jacket has been pierced.

if i throw it in neutral when braking there is no problems & it only does it after a reasonable speed reduction so the description given on the lockup seems to make sense at this point. i just need to find it... lol

also, how do i read the codes. there is a box under the driver side bit it's got a cover on it that looks like i need to remove the seat to get it off. this sounds a bit laborious to just diagnose...

 

TX and poorman are very good, but i think if you can find the source of the vacuum leak it might fix the transmission problem you're having, being an 89, them hoses could be hard,brittle and cracked, the motor will run like crap with vacuum leaks and could very well affect the transmission. Any shop with a smoke machine can easily locate the source of the vacuum leak.

 

I looked at the 89 Accord Manual I have and there apparently isn't a Lock-Up solenoid valve. There is an internal LU Cut-valve (terminology also to Lock Cut Valve). It can stick and cause this problem.

The manual also says that "throttle cable too long" can cause your problem. This suggests attempting to shorten the throttle cable slightly. Note, this may have affect on shift quality.

Manual says to check oil screen for particles and if oil pump and differential pinion shaft are OK, replace the torque converter.

If you have a manual, check the troubleshooting pages.

good luck

 

Only the LXi had a lock up converter......have you done a drain and fill of the trans.

Yes the throttle control cable should be checked....mounts should be checked....PB check valve..

EDIT: add the above to my first questions...........

 

Next...need to read more....the ecu is under the drivers seat...from the back, there is a "tab" in the palstic cover, pull from the top.....then turn the car to "on".....see if the led light blinks...if so, count the blinks and let us know how many.

 

well i've been short on time but i checked the trans fluid & it seems to be overfull. i'm going to drain some today if time permits. would this cause a problem like i describe?

also, i saw the little cover on the back of the computer cover under the seat but when i open it i see nothing but the computer box. there is no led in sight... i've seen it on the newer models under the seat on the front half of the computer but this is clearly different if viewed from the rear. maybe the carb model is different or something?

oh, here's a video of another accord i have i thought you might get a "kick" out of...
‪95 accord wagon dash mods‬‏ - YouTube - my buddy is trying to get the A/C box out & got a bit impatient... seemed like it might be a cool place to put a subwoofer enclosure instead... it's been sitting for years. i was going to get it back on the road but a new GF & 1yr old put it back in mothballs... anyone got some strutbags around they don't need? it's got cylinders that leak & ride like poooo anyway... probably need to shave the front doors too to make it roadworthy or it may fold in half... lol it was just meant for show at first. i drove it a few months ago though hence the "custom" tail lights... mad neck breaker none the less

 

Carb are the same......I would know, check my signature-two FI and two carb...in the same gen. Use a flashlight and you will see the red LED.

Anyway OBD0, not much if anything you'll get from it on trans issues....and to add there is not a lock up converter on the DX or LX..again ask how I know this.

Any updates on the other questions?

EDIT: Don't want to sound like a @#*k or anything, really want to help, so please don't take it that way. I'm NOT an expert on the 3rd gens but happen to have been around them for...a while and still have a few examples in the driveway.