91 Accord exposed wire in distributor
Hi,
I have a 91 Accord LX and I have been having a problem with it stalling while driving in hot Arizona tempuratures. Last year, changing the main relay solved the problem. This summer I change the relay twice to no avail. I got an error code 15. I have new wires, cap, rotor, plugs. Everything looks clean in my distributor, except I found some insulation torn on one of the wires that connects from one of the metal contacts the rotor strikes. Would that cause pcm code 15? Would that cause anything more than that cylinder not firing? Or could that be my problem altogether? Also, the ignition coil is kind of bent on the end, as if somebody pulled the end of the coil with some pliers and stretched it out a little bit. Would that cause the coil to fail in high heat? Any help is greatly appreciated. Im picking up a multimeter tomorrow to test the ignitor and coil but thought i would look for wiring issues first, corrosion and what not. Thx
I have a 91 Accord LX and I have been having a problem with it stalling while driving in hot Arizona tempuratures. Last year, changing the main relay solved the problem. This summer I change the relay twice to no avail. I got an error code 15. I have new wires, cap, rotor, plugs. Everything looks clean in my distributor, except I found some insulation torn on one of the wires that connects from one of the metal contacts the rotor strikes. Would that cause pcm code 15? Would that cause anything more than that cylinder not firing? Or could that be my problem altogether? Also, the ignition coil is kind of bent on the end, as if somebody pulled the end of the coil with some pliers and stretched it out a little bit. Would that cause the coil to fail in high heat? Any help is greatly appreciated. Im picking up a multimeter tomorrow to test the ignitor and coil but thought i would look for wiring issues first, corrosion and what not. Thx
Inside the distributor, the ignitor is shown as #1 in this picture. The wires going to this can cause error 15 if they short to ground.

The other magnetic sensors buried more deeply in the distributor - I think they'd set different errors if they shorted.

The other magnetic sensors buried more deeply in the distributor - I think they'd set different errors if they shorted.
Since it's almost impossible to get my car to stall, take the distributor cap off and test the ignitor and the ignition coil before its cool enough to start back up, should i just buy the whole distributor? I want to save money but I just don't see how I can check power on these things when I have to be driving for it to happen.
Problem solved. I ended up replacing the whole distributor because when I tried to repair the wires, more insulation just broke off of them causing the short. I got a reman. one for $138 so it was almost as cheap as just the ignitor had that been the only problem
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helixblue
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Oct 22, 2007 11:02 PM




