I have a 1991 Honda Accord wagon and I had the AC checked due to the fact that it was not cooling. Turns out system had no R-14 coolant left and after further investigation the main compressor seal was found to be leaking. I'm able to order a kit to replace the main compressor seal and I was wondering if anyone has performed this repair who could advise me further. The Honda Repair Book goes as far as as compressor clutch overhaul but know further. So far I'm also advised to replace receiver dryer-add 2 0z Pac 46 oil. Additionaly to order a seal kit along with main shaft seal kit. Someone suggested pulling the evaporator and replacing all the orings on the expansion valve because they tend to leak w/ age but that was on a 1994 EX ?

 

All a/c systems are similar, so you should follow TexasHonda's advice on a/c repair. If you are going to replace the seal(s) in the compressor, replace the o-rings throughout the system.

I ordered the compressor seal kit from ackits.com. The 95 shaft seal was inside of the housing and secured by a snap ring. (Get snap ring pliers if you do not have them.) There were ~5 bolts that held the housing together.

My compressor housing came apart in three sections when I removed those bolts. The large o-rings were the seals for those three sections. The pistons fell out and it took me a while to get it back together. The pistons were more tedious than difficult.

Your compressor may have the shaft seal on the outside of the housing. I just figured that I would warn you about taking apart the housing.

IMPORTANT: When I put the shaft seal over the shaft, I wrapped a piece of plastic cut out from a coke bottle around the shaft. The geared end will destroy the shaft seal if you do not do this.

I used Nylog o-ring lubricant on all new seals. It prevents them from becoming brittle.

 

R-12? or R-134a?
If you are converting from 12 to 134 it's a good idea to replace the Orings.
If you don't want to convert; I've had good luck with 'freeze-12' it is SNAP approved and runs similar pressure to R-12.

You need to have the system evacuated, then you can unhook the battery, remove the Alt. and bracket; then take loose the compressor And the mounting bracket. When the bracket is out of the way you will be able to tilt the compressor up and the hoses will give enough slack you can get the compressor almost to the top of the radiator.
Then remove the clutch being careful not to lose the clutch gap spacer washers.
I'm about 90% sure your seal is not internal of the compressor.
Then remove the grip ring [internal type] and with a small bent pick get the old seal loose. Be careful not to scratch the shaft.
When installing the new seal a little swipe of silicone grease on the inside lip will help it to seat in when it starts runing again.
Put it all back together vacum and recharge.

 

The AC cooling seemed to be a little low on my 99 4cyl. accord. Not knowing any better I started putting cans in the system. I started hearing the compressor kick on and off. It blew all the 134 and oil out what appears to be a relief valve on the compressor. Tried refilling system and it will not hold. Comes out the valve. What is the next move?

 

Replace the valve. Pull a vac on the system and "properly" charge the system. Needless to say, adding too much is bad, not adding enough is bad. There is a fine balance within the system.

 

You have lost most of your lube charge also. Difficult to know how much was lost. I tend to err on plus side and would add 5-6 oz of PAG.

It would be better to air blast the condensor and hoses (release from evaporator first), replace receiver/drier, and then add 7-8 oz of lube. The new double-end capped PAG is supposed to be resistant to moisture uptake. Your receiver/drier must be replaced since the system must been opened to atmosphere to replace the pressure relief valve.

The pressure relief valve probably blew (could have been defective)because system pressures were too high. This could mean other problems; dirty condensor, cooling fans not running, expansion valve stuck closed, etc. This problem may recur once you re-assemble so be watchful.

You need a set of AC manifold guages to check both high and low sides when charging w/ recommended charge of R134a (usually about 24oz).

good luck