92 Accord LX overheating problems
#1
92 Accord LX overheating problems
Hi guys, first time Honda owner and visitor here, need a little help figuring out why my Accord smells like its running hot.... I have a 92 Accord LX with a 2.2 L 16 Valve engine, it already has a couple big issues with the balancer and pass. half axle needing replaced, but I'm wondering what would cause it to run hot to the point where I start smelling what I think is either hot antifreeze or oil from the engine bay.
#2
If the temperature stars to rise, turn on the heat full blast to help cool the engine. This will protect the engine's internals. I would avoid driving the car until you fix the overheat.
When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is filled with coolant. Top off as needed. Let us know how much coolant you added.
Pull the oil dipstick and check that the oil doesn't look frothy, like chocolate milk.
Does the engine overheat when driving or sitting at a stop light?
When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is filled with coolant. Top off as needed. Let us know how much coolant you added.
Pull the oil dipstick and check that the oil doesn't look frothy, like chocolate milk.
Does the engine overheat when driving or sitting at a stop light?
#3
See thats another issue, most of the gauges in my console don't work, tach works, speed works -sometimes-, gas works fine, temp gauge barely ever moves and the odometer doesn't work... Another thing that bugs me is when I first drive it it gets hot and the funky smells start, then I shut it down and let it cool some and on the return trip it doesn't happen.
#5
There are a few ways to loosen the crank bolt. One is to use a hex tool that fits inside the crank pulley. Or use an impact. Search this forum, because there are a lot of posts about this.
You really need to figure out why your gauges do not work. Does your check engine light turn on while driving? Does the S light (or D4 light) flash while driving? Check for codes anyways. See the link for checking codes in the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum.
There is a sensor on the passenger side of the engine block that only has one wire going to it. That is the sensor that controls the gauge in your car. I believe the wire color will be red. With the key turned off, unplug that sensor, and ground that red wire using a jumper wire. Turn the key to the II position. Does the need start to move towards hot? Turn off the key before the needle moves to the top of the gauge and gets damaged.
Did you find that the radiator was filled with coolant?
You really need to figure out why your gauges do not work. Does your check engine light turn on while driving? Does the S light (or D4 light) flash while driving? Check for codes anyways. See the link for checking codes in the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum.
There is a sensor on the passenger side of the engine block that only has one wire going to it. That is the sensor that controls the gauge in your car. I believe the wire color will be red. With the key turned off, unplug that sensor, and ground that red wire using a jumper wire. Turn the key to the II position. Does the need start to move towards hot? Turn off the key before the needle moves to the top of the gauge and gets damaged.
Did you find that the radiator was filled with coolant?
#6
Don't have the hex tool and the air compressor we're using only puts out 150 psi. The check engine light does not turn on while driving, the only lights on my console that come on is the driver door open indicator (which seems to always be bloody on) and the brake lamp light. Once I get the new balancer on I'll check for the sensor, as for the radiator yes it was full of coolant.
#7
ok, so I got my balancer replaced, and come to find out I've only got 1 fan on my radiator, i'm completely missing the pass. side radiator fan, which would prolly explain why my car is over heating, so will be replacing that asap, plus the pass half axle once I can get one ordered
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