The bearing is probably the source of the rust.

There is not much else mechanically that can go wrong in the distributor. The grease will dry up and/or absorb moisture over time causing the metal bearings to rust.

 

The distributor-shaft bearing is a sealed lubricated bushing of some sort, & when the lubrication dries out it creates iron dust. Red rusty dust all over the inside of the distributor which interferes with the magnetic sensors (CKP, CYP, TDC) inside the distributor.

So was rust dust all over? Or did you just see some surface rust on the shaft itself?

 

Hi Jim,

Today I drove it four hours...in very mixed conditions. Hills, 25 mph, interstate, and such. No problems.

I pulled the cap and found: 99% of the rust was on the shaft inside the rotor and between the rotor and the top of the trigger/cam/thing. There was a bit of rust powder on the top of the trigger/cam. But, there has never been a sign of rust or powder below the top of that trigger/cam thing.

The whole lower part of the distributor, the shield, and the cap never had any rust or powder.

With the cap off, I can look at the shaft at the bottom of the dirstibutor and see a bearing. It is rust-free and looks great.

But, I will keep a sharp eye out for the Red Death.

Is dielectric grease called for on the shaft where the rotor pushes on?

I was at the Honda dealer today and they didn't have a distributor cap gasket. They didn't even offer to get one. I expect they would have if I had asked, but seems pretty lame.

Any other suggestions regarding what may be my solved problem would be appreciuated. In about two weeks I will drive from Maine to western MN.

Roy

 

You wouldn't want to conduct the spark to the dist shaft.
I'd say no grease is best; or if you must silicone spray the shaft lightly.
Maybe because the gasket comes with the OEM Dist cap.
Look at their point of view; they feel you already burned them out of a parts sale by buying aftermarket, then ask them to jump thru hoops to get a part they will make nothing on for their effort.

 

Hi,

Sure, maybe that is their point-of-view. My view is that helpful parts guys make me more likely to return and buy something else.

Everyone who needs a cap gasket can't be evil non-OEM-people. My cap came with the car and doesn't need to be changed out yet...but, I think I might be getting dampness past the gasket.

And, Hondadude, thanks for the grease comment.

Roy

 

Hi,

I thought the problem was solved with the new rotor and shield. Note I test drove it about four hours w/o problems.

Today I drove ~ 8 hours. At about the half way point at highway speeds I got once-in-a-while missing. I exited, and at lower speeds it wanted to stall...the tach did not crash to zero like it used to...and it always restarted before I lost much speed. I then drove it home with only occassional missing at highway speeds and low-seed self-fixing stalls.

At one low speed stall, the CEL came on. I pulled over and tried to find the plug to short to get the codes. Nothing down by the kick panel looked like the pic in Haynes, so I started it back up. The CEL was no longer on.

Any chance this could be an occassional coil problem? Will there be codes if the CEL is not on?

Thanks,

Roy

 

The ECU will store that code even if the CEL has turned off. Short that connector and find out what code(s) you have, and we can help you out from there.

 

have you tested the igniter ??

 

Hi,

No, I have not pulled the codes or tested the igniter. I will do both when I get back to the car. I was about to drive from Maine to western Minnesota when this last deal happened. I had to hop in my Dodge and drive out here.

I'll be here for two months and will get back to you guys then. Thanks,

Roy