93 Accord LX CEL and D4
#1
93 Accord LX CEL and D4
I have a 93 Accord LX I recently picked up for my wife and it was in a minor accident. The only damage was to the grill, hood, upper rad support and rad. I got replacement parts from the local jy but im having a prob w the cel and d4 flashing. I looked up how to check the fault codes on this site and got a 6 from the cel which is the ect sensor and a 10 from the d4 which is the same sensor. I have replaced the sensor and left the batt disconnected for hours but the darn cel and d4 keep popping up w the same code. I saw somewhere in my reading that this could be caused by air in the cooling system but i can't seem to fig out how to bleed the air or what else could be causing this. I'm beginning to wonder if I have cleared the codes from the ecu\tcu at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#5
The ECT sensor is in the side of the head, roughly under the distibutor. It has a 2-wire connector same as the one you replaced.
The one in the T-stat housing is the fan switch. Did you install a new ECT sensor into the fan-switch location? If so, put the old one back in, and install the ECT sensor into the head. Most likely you didn't mess anything up by instlling it to the wrong place.
The sender for the temperature gauge is also in the side of the head, but it's only got 1 wire. There's another fan switch at the UPPER radiator hose; that one only has authority after shutting off the engine.
At the T-stat housing there's a bleed valve, looks about like a brake bleeder. Set the interior temperature control all the way to HOT, to open the heater valve. Open the bleeder to allow air to bleed out. Top up at the radiator cap.
The one in the T-stat housing is the fan switch. Did you install a new ECT sensor into the fan-switch location? If so, put the old one back in, and install the ECT sensor into the head. Most likely you didn't mess anything up by instlling it to the wrong place.
The sender for the temperature gauge is also in the side of the head, but it's only got 1 wire. There's another fan switch at the UPPER radiator hose; that one only has authority after shutting off the engine.
At the T-stat housing there's a bleed valve, looks about like a brake bleeder. Set the interior temperature control all the way to HOT, to open the heater valve. Open the bleeder to allow air to bleed out. Top up at the radiator cap.
Last edited by JimBlake; 11-02-2012 at 10:03 PM.
#7
I located the proper sensor and realized it wasn't connected at all. It seems the wires had gotten brittle, prob from all the heat there, and broken completely off. I went to the jy today and snagged a connector but haven't had a chance to install it yet due to the time change. I'll hook 'er up tomorrow and report back.
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