93 Accord Power locks don't always work.
#1
93 Accord Power locks don't always work.
they will stop working from both the pass and driver doors and then a few days later start working again. (I'm having issues with my INT wiper speed, not sure if this is related, but it also doesnt always work, i've changed the relay and it made no difference, it works for a few days and then it stops)
Anyways..i have an aftermarket alarm with keyless entry, so obviously I can't unlock the cars from the remote control either, i have to use the key to unlock or clock the driver door. I think its important to say that when the power locks don't work, none of them work, i dont even hear the clicking noise, no lock responds from either door but when it comes back to work for whatever reason, i'm able to lock/unlock all doors from inside the car, from both doors and from the remote control. The alarm is working fine, its the locking/unlocking of the doors that stops working.
I'd appreciate any help. Please let me know where the part that needs troubleshooting is located.
Thanks very much!!!
Anyways..i have an aftermarket alarm with keyless entry, so obviously I can't unlock the cars from the remote control either, i have to use the key to unlock or clock the driver door. I think its important to say that when the power locks don't work, none of them work, i dont even hear the clicking noise, no lock responds from either door but when it comes back to work for whatever reason, i'm able to lock/unlock all doors from inside the car, from both doors and from the remote control. The alarm is working fine, its the locking/unlocking of the doors that stops working.
I'd appreciate any help. Please let me know where the part that needs troubleshooting is located.
Thanks very much!!!
#4
This is where a volt meter comes into play.
They have settings for continuty/resistance - I know confusing but I have to put it out there. This will confirm a good "ground" for example. One end of the meter on the wire, the other end of the meter to a "ground" source and you can confirm "continuty to ground".
In another setting - you can do this on the car battery posts - voltage can be checked. One end of the meter on the positive terminal of the bat (+) and the other on the ground (-) and the meter should read ~12.5 volts.....assuming the battery is at "normal conditions".
Simple digital volt meters can be had for ~$10??? They are a tool that will pay for itself in no time when chasing elect issues. From there, depending on where you want to go the price can go up....by a ton . A true tech might spend ~$400+ on a meter but that gets them to a whole other level of functions and detail.
They have settings for continuty/resistance - I know confusing but I have to put it out there. This will confirm a good "ground" for example. One end of the meter on the wire, the other end of the meter to a "ground" source and you can confirm "continuty to ground".
In another setting - you can do this on the car battery posts - voltage can be checked. One end of the meter on the positive terminal of the bat (+) and the other on the ground (-) and the meter should read ~12.5 volts.....assuming the battery is at "normal conditions".
Simple digital volt meters can be had for ~$10??? They are a tool that will pay for itself in no time when chasing elect issues. From there, depending on where you want to go the price can go up....by a ton . A true tech might spend ~$400+ on a meter but that gets them to a whole other level of functions and detail.
#5
ok, so the battery is good. 12.5 - 13.5. now when i reconnected the battery the locks started going on and off..click ..click...click by themselves....i had the remove the relay...but the powers locks dont work every time...where is the main motor located for the power locks?
#7
Each door has an actuator/motor controlled by the switches.
Again there are tests you can do on the master switch. Another thing you can try, remove the wire harness to the drivers side door lock actuator and see what happens.....
Again there are tests you can do on the master switch. Another thing you can try, remove the wire harness to the drivers side door lock actuator and see what happens.....
#8
then after you do all the tests; open the lock control box [it is clipped at the bottom and slides out] Look carefully at the solder joints and find the cracked joint. Resolder it and put it all back together.
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