A month ago I purchased a 94 Accord with 160k, was expecting it to need work but wanted to do work on something that would be cheap and reliable.

Problems have been unfolding left and right.

Failed emmisions with 7 hc out of 1.6 allowed, added some treatment to the tank.

Eventually it had trouble starting up and the engine began giving out while driving. I made it home and it has gotten worse and worse never got to retest emissions because the stalling becoming frequent on my way to the testing station.
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Replaced the batt, oil/ filter and air filter and the startup problem went away, .

the plugs were good, replaced the distributor and alternator, because it had the wrong one which was covered in ps fluid from the bad pump above

cleaned egr ports/ valve, injectors, throttle body IACV, tailed the vaccum lines, a couple were in the wrong places reassigned them, replaced fuel filter after cleaning fuel system.
Tested cat it was working

All idle issues it had are gone it seems, and im sure if it was warm I could pass emissions now

it had a cel code 12 and 20, 12 was for egr, 20 maybe the alternator? Haven't seen any since then unfortunately.

So it starts up way better than it ever has even when it drove, idles and revs alright, but once i drive in a gear it sputters out and dies almost immediately withing 50 feet. The lights twitch and the car rumbles a bit. Lame. Starts back up in a few secs but will have the same problem.

I kind of suspect the fuel pump but I can hear it come on when i turn the key.
It only dies under load.

THis may be useful, there was a lot of pressure in the gas cap when I got the car, when the fuel treatment was in the tank there was nor pressure when I opened it, now it is back to high pressure when I open the cap, even after a couple days. It had high amount of cleaner in the tank and was ok with no pressure I filled back up with premium and the problems began soon after, possibly a coincidence.

Is is possible for a fuel pump to work on startup but not under load?

Went to the junk yard and tried to get fuel pump but the dudes spent 2 hours pulling the sender so I just grabbed the relay and had to leave couldnt wait for them to try again because my rides had other things to do.
Was thinking of just getting a $50 pump off ebay, I know its cheap but Im sure it would work for a while and wouldnt be much different than oreilleys cheap model.

Somewhat expect ignition switch too, but not as much as the fuel pump. I wiggled around key while running and nothing happens. This video: has a good method to diagnose but its for automatic, is there a way to do it on standard?

UPDATE: I was just investigating the tank pressure and disconnected the fuel return line and released the pressure in the fuel rail. Hooked everything back up, turned the key over a few times to prime the fuel system and it wont even start back up now. The ignition sequence where the CEL light comes on and the fuel pump runs for 3 seconds is now abnormal. The cel light seems dim. one start it stayed on for a long time other times 2 secs but the engine wont start, it will almost sometimes but not succesfull, as its starting it is rumbling weird and the lights make glitchy flashes.This somewhat points to the ignition switch, but I dont know why it would happen after tapping the fuel system.

Though now it does seem like jiggling the key affects the lights in the dash.

Can suspect a tps but I hear those hardly ever go out,


It could maybe be the torque converter? **** if I have to try and fix that.


It is also a little rough shifting the guy who sold me it said he just did the clutch, the pedal feels firm but it doesnt go into gear very smooth 1st and reverse in particular, after its warmed up it does better.

I was hoping to get something road worthy when I bought it, and it seemed ok, apparently I shouldn't have trusted the guy and waited for another. now I've put $500 in repairs and it wont even drive, thank you craigslist haha.

I only have like $200 more to invest in repairs until summer and really need it to get to school until then.

If anyone has seen this before or has any useful suggestions please let me know asap. It is hell walking to the bus in the snow with 5 textbooks.

Im not sure what to replace next, my master tech friend isnt of much help unless I cant get a part in or something like that.

Im thinking fuel pump first, then ignition switch, then tps if those fail.


Thanks, Cheers!

 

I highly suggest to start diagnosing the problem and not just throwing parts at it.

Your car does not need premium gas and you will gain no performance out of it. Premium gas is made, so it does not ignite before the spark in high compression engines.

I would spend the $6 and get NGK ZFR5F-11 that you can buy at most parts stores.

Clear the engine codes bay pulling the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Then drive the car so it stalls, then recheck the codes.

One other thing to try is to start the car, when the engine idles, shake the key. Will the car stall out?

 

Trust me i know, ego reinforcing lecture does me no good! a master tech diagnosed everything up to now, the distributor alt, relay.

it was fine when wiggling the key, it wont even start now so i cant check again.

Anything helpful is appreciated

 

PAH offered good advice IMO.

Since it won't start, why not try to determine whether spark or fuel is the issue rather than guessing. Suggest attempting to start w/ 10 sec spray of throttle body cleaner into air intake duct.

If it starts/runs briefly fuel delivery issue is confirmed; either fuel pump or main fuel relay is likely.

If it fails to start, spark is missing and should be addressed; ignition switch assy, coil, ignitor, etc.

good luck