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94 Accord Lx Problems!!!! so close!!!!!!

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  #11  
Old 02-08-2014, 02:11 PM
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air bypass bleed screw on the throttle body!
 
  #12  
Old 02-08-2014, 02:23 PM
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Iac=yellow/black - blue
tps=red - green/blue - yellow/blue
map= yellow/white x2 - green/white
resisitor box= red/? x3 -yellow/black

and for texashonda when put any load on the car nothingat all happens no higheror lower rpms it just stays
 
  #13  
Old 02-08-2014, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Dynamic
thanks texashonda that was my question, my rpms do not move when i turn a load on they just stay the same but no code. i will pull it off later tonight after work and test it with a 12v supply. yes im sure ive cleaned it. alot of wierd things with this car like the code for my 02 heater that was a short in the ecu!!!long venture on that one cause the guy who had the car before pulled the check engine light out.... wierd stuff i say!!!lol
Your posts are confusing.

First post indicates IACV is failing to compensate for load but above post says rpm stays same no matter the load. That is proper function of IACV, to maintain rpm as load is added/subtracted. If that's what is happening, IACV system is OK.

Note, base idle setting must be performed w/ IACV electrically disconnected. Setting is 550 +/- 50 rpm.

good luck
 
  #14  
Old 02-08-2014, 02:35 PM
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sorry i dont mean to confuse you. the car did at one point before i cleaned the iac make the rpms go higher when i turned on the ac. not any more tho, but you are saying that is right.got it.
 
  #15  
Old 02-08-2014, 03:00 PM
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You have the map and the tps plugged in properly. These two sensors have identical connectors, so you can switch them. The resistor box is the same deal, but it should have 4 red (or red/blk) and one blk/yel (or yel/blk) wire. The other identical electrical connector nearby has different wire colors, so quickly check that.

You need to set your base idle to 550. Get the car to normal operating temperature (when the cooling fan turns on) IACV is unplugged and I think the blue service connector to the ECU should be jumped. Then set the idle.

If you haven't set the timing to 15 degrees BTDC with a timing light and rotating the distributor, then do that as well.

Shut off the car, plug in the IACV, reset the ECU by pulling the backup/radio fuse (7.5 amp in engine bay fuse box). Then start the car and let the car warm up without any load on the system.

Let us know what you find.
 
  #16  
Old 02-08-2014, 03:08 PM
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WP 20140208 003 - YouTube

will do here is a link a video i shot for rpms there an ever so slight misfire??... just want this fixed. i do have a timing light just thought i had to get it steady before i time it. i also noticed that my cooling fans havent come on in awhile.... i do live in colorado though and its has been freezing
 

Last edited by Dynamic; 02-08-2014 at 03:13 PM.
  #17  
Old 02-08-2014, 03:31 PM
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The fans may not come on if it is cold outside.

Get the base idle set, because you may have too much air going to the engine, since you set it to 750 rpm line.

When the blue connector is shorted, the engine should fire based on mechanical timing. You would want a steady idle to do this. The idle looks steady on your youtube video, so adjusting the timing should get you pretty close to the right spot.

You need to get the basics set properly before you start diagnosing other items.
 
  #18  
Old 02-08-2014, 03:35 PM
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EDIT: When you go to set the timing, plug in the IACV before you set the timing.

Also, when idling properly, the rpm of your car should be 700+/-50 rpm. The rpm on your video is about where you want the idle at normal operating conditions.
 
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