94 accord overheating :( help!
#21
there is probably something up with the wiring or the gauge itself. The connection to the gauge cluster could be loose or have a bad connection.
Either way, you will probably have to remove the cluster to test that wire sending the signal to the temperature guage. Do you have a volt meter?
Either way, you will probably have to remove the cluster to test that wire sending the signal to the temperature guage. Do you have a volt meter?
#22
It is not as bad as you would think. The center console, radio bezel, and the HVAC controls come off, then your unscrew the gauge cluster.
I would suggest downloading the 94 shop manual from the spooner link in the Online Manuals thread in the DIY section. It will show you where all the screws, etc are located and how to remove the cluster.
The wire you want to test is that wire going to the sending unit. Weird, the manual has wire labeled as red, but says that it is yel/grn in text and wiring diagram. I am guessing it is yel/grn? With the wire unplugged at the cluster and in the engine bay, you want to be sure that is has an open circuit to ground (infinite resistance). The pin number is B9. See page 23-131 to see what I am talking about.
If the wire checks out ok, you can try to take apart the cluster and remelt the solder on the board for the temperature gauge.
I would suggest downloading the 94 shop manual from the spooner link in the Online Manuals thread in the DIY section. It will show you where all the screws, etc are located and how to remove the cluster.
The wire you want to test is that wire going to the sending unit. Weird, the manual has wire labeled as red, but says that it is yel/grn in text and wiring diagram. I am guessing it is yel/grn? With the wire unplugged at the cluster and in the engine bay, you want to be sure that is has an open circuit to ground (infinite resistance). The pin number is B9. See page 23-131 to see what I am talking about.
If the wire checks out ok, you can try to take apart the cluster and remelt the solder on the board for the temperature gauge.
#23
All the instrument gauges are part of a larger instrument panel circuit board and separately removable and replaceable. For example, the speedometer is part of the larger mother circuit board; but, the speedometer gauge has a smaller daughter board for certain functions of the speedometer. There are three electrical connectors that plug into the instrument panel; but, I don't believe any one of them is solely for the water temperature gauge.
For the water temperature gauge, I don't see an exposed individual daughter board. There also does not appear to be a capacitor which would retain a charge to keep the reading where it was before the ignition was turned off.
In your previous post, you do state that the gauge does move, so the ECT sender unit may be working (not sure if it is working properly though, you would have to measure the resistance of the sender unit as shown here: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...9&d=1295664803)
Here are some pictures of the gauge unit in relation to the instrument gauge panel.
#24
You might want to try unplugging the Yel/Grn wire from the ECT sender in the engine compartment; but, don't turn on the ignition to see if the gauge drops to cold. If it doesn't, this may be more indication of the individual temp. gauge in the cluster needing to be replaced.
#26
i beleive so. so if my mechanic did that.he damaged my gauge? and i gta replace my gauge correct? because i cnt find anything wrong with it.i checked everything and i will replace the single pin sensor a.s.a.p.
#27
Your ECT sender may be okay, it may just be the gauge.
#29
i disconnected the single pin sensor and it didnt go down to cold.would that be a sign that my sensor isnt working properly?
#30
You might want to try unplugging the Yel/Grn wire from the ECT sender in the engine compartment; but, don't turn on the ignition to see if the gauge drops to cold. If it doesn't, this may be more indication of the individual temp. gauge in the cluster needing to be replaced.