It all started because the driver's window wasn't going UP consistently. Sometimes the switch would work and sometimes it wouldn't.

First thought was to clean the switch. So I pulled it out and found that it is unlike any other power window switch that I've played with. So I looked at it and figured out where I needed to squirt cleaner but it was blocked by rubber do-dad over the switch. So I tried to pry the black tab off the passenger door switch and wound up breaking the whole danged thing. No a big problem, I still have the door switch on the passenger side. Wrong. Now the passenger side window doesn't work.

A friend who installs alarm systems told that if the driver's door switch isn't intact, the window won't work.

The really big problem is that the window is half way down.

So I figured that I could just jumper a couple wires and get the window to work. The problem is that the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual makes little sense to me. I used to build electronic kits as a kid so I am familiar with schematics but I just can't figure this one out.

It looks like the blue/black wire brings power to the switch and the red/blue one takes power to the motor but when I jumper the blue/black to red/blue nothing happens.

Any suggestions.

BTW, I just found that a switch from the dealer is almost $200.

 

I would get a replacement switch at the junkyard.

In the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum has a link to the online shop manuals thread. Get a 94 shop manual from the honda-tech link listed in there. There are better wiring diagrams in there. The US accord is the KH model in the shop manual.

To get the window motor to push up the window for now, you will have to supply 12V and ground to the two wires that run the window motor. The wire colors for the driver's window motor on the driver's window switch are red/blu and red/yel.

I think the red/blu gets 12V to push up the window. The red/yel gets ground. If the window goes down, reverse the 12V and ground. The grn/wht wire at the window switch should have 12V, the black wire(s) will be the ground. The key will have to be in the II position, and you can use a volt meter to verify you have voltage on the grn/wht wire.

 

Thanks, I'll give that shot when I have sunlight.

I've ordered a new switch on ebay. I thought about a used switch but who knows how many Cokes have been spilled on it.

 

Tried jumpering wires but that didn't end well. Something went POP and the driver's window stopped working. I figured that it was the fuse and I didn't want to crawl around in the dirt to change the fuse (could Honda engineers NOT figure out a more accessible location for the fuse panel?).

New switch arrived today. Not as pretty as a Honda switch but it works. I plugged it in and everything works. Didn't even have to change a fuse.

Now on to the next issue.

 

Reviving my old thread with an update.

Went to work today and tried putting the drivers side window up and it wouldn't go up. Dang! What now? Checked the fuse. Not blown. Pulled the switch out of the door and found out why I shouldn't buy a $35 switch to replace a $200 Honda switch.

The paddle for the switch had broken at it's pivots and then when I pulled it off I discovered that it had a long thin plastic arm on one side of the paddle that reached down into the switch box and moved a mechanical switch waaaaay down there. That long thin plastic arm had broken too. I used a small screwdriver to manipulate the mechanical switch in the depth of the switch assembly and got the window up.

Off to a junkyard on Monday to pull one out of a Honda.

I irony is that I destroyed the original switch in my efforts to fix it when there was actually nothing wrong with it. Back in February when I started this mess, I figured out when I was putting the new switch in that the old switch wasn't working properly because one of the screws that held it in place had fallen out which allowed the switch body to shift enough that the lever wouldn't move enough to actuate the window. For want of a nail, a shoe is lost . . . .

So the moral of this story is clear, do not buy cheap aftermarket switches for your Honda.

Edited to add: I found the receipt, the cheap switch wasn't $35, it was $54. It supposedly has a lifetime warranty but to take advantage of that, I have to either send the old one back or pay for one up front and then send the old one back for credit. However, they have this rule that they broken one can't be disassembled but it disassembled itself so I am doubtful that I will get my money back. Junkyard time.

 

Just followed this. Worked great, thanks.