And the 94 accord problem keep on coming
#11
03-30-2014, 03:33 PM
I was already prepared for that news my dad and I just used his trusty snap-on cooling system tester and coolant started leaking from the rear of the engine you could see it. The coolant/water just doesn't seem to be circulating. The oil isn't mixed, the car still never overheated the few days I've had it. But I know I could be wrong. I got so many opinions thrown at me it'll boggle the mind lol.most say blown head gasket, some say the fans are bad. My thoughts are that I don't know enough in this realm so I have to listen to advice from honda guys. Either way I thank you all it just seems I bought a real bad car, that I'd have to spend an arm and a leg to fix when I just paid for the car lol talk about bad luck
Last edited by HondaAccordEXUSMC; 03-30-2014 at 03:58 PM.
#12
03-31-2014, 06:13 PM
Coolant from the back of the motor, there are several hoses and pipes back there. Can you get the car in the air and get under it - be safe - and see where it is coming from?
There is some UV dye you can add to the coolant system if you still can't find it.
I'm not with the HG yet. Either a leak somewhere, which it seems you have found one, the cooling system still has air in it - either from the t-stat/switch replacment or a leak.
You have one fan working properly - the other is hard wired. So at the end of the day they are "working" - just not the way most of us would want. Most of us like for both to come on only when Thermo A on the t-stat housing (lower hose connection) "sees" temps in the ~195 range.
Thermo B - upper hose connection - tells THE fan to come on when the engine is off and heat soak sets in and temps get to ~225. THE fan will run for up to 20 minutes trying to cool the engine.
So again, IMHO I am not with a blown HG - compression is good, the test for exhaust gases in the coolant came up negative.
So, keep an eye on the coolant level. Find the leak, fix it. Remove the "hard wire" on the fan and get it back to factory/OE. Properly bleed the system. Verify that Thermo A is of the proper spec.
There is some UV dye you can add to the coolant system if you still can't find it.
I'm not with the HG yet. Either a leak somewhere, which it seems you have found one, the cooling system still has air in it - either from the t-stat/switch replacment or a leak.
You have one fan working properly - the other is hard wired. So at the end of the day they are "working" - just not the way most of us would want. Most of us like for both to come on only when Thermo A on the t-stat housing (lower hose connection) "sees" temps in the ~195 range.
Thermo B - upper hose connection - tells THE fan to come on when the engine is off and heat soak sets in and temps get to ~225. THE fan will run for up to 20 minutes trying to cool the engine.
So again, IMHO I am not with a blown HG - compression is good, the test for exhaust gases in the coolant came up negative.
So, keep an eye on the coolant level. Find the leak, fix it. Remove the "hard wire" on the fan and get it back to factory/OE. Properly bleed the system. Verify that Thermo A is of the proper spec.
Last edited by poorman212; 03-31-2014 at 06:15 PM.
#13
03-31-2014, 11:51 PM
Coolant from the back of the motor, there are several hoses and pipes back there. Can you get the car in the air and get under it - be safe - and see where it is coming from?
There is some UV dye you can add to the coolant system if you still can't find it.
I'm not with the HG yet. Either a leak somewhere, which it seems you have found one, the cooling system still has air in it - either from the t-stat/switch replacment or a leak.
You have one fan working properly - the other is hard wired. So at the end of the day they are "working" - just not the way most of us would want. Most of us like for both to come on only when Thermo A on the t-stat housing (lower hose connection) "sees" temps in the ~195 range.
Thermo B - upper hose connection - tells THE fan to come on when the engine is off and heat soak sets in and temps get to ~225. THE fan will run for up to 20 minutes trying to cool the engine.
So again, IMHO I am not with a blown HG - compression is good, the test for exhaust gases in the coolant came up negative.
So, keep an eye on the coolant level. Find the leak, fix it. Remove the "hard wire" on the fan and get it back to factory/OE. Properly bleed the system. Verify that Thermo A is of the proper spec.
There is some UV dye you can add to the coolant system if you still can't find it.
I'm not with the HG yet. Either a leak somewhere, which it seems you have found one, the cooling system still has air in it - either from the t-stat/switch replacment or a leak.
You have one fan working properly - the other is hard wired. So at the end of the day they are "working" - just not the way most of us would want. Most of us like for both to come on only when Thermo A on the t-stat housing (lower hose connection) "sees" temps in the ~195 range.
Thermo B - upper hose connection - tells THE fan to come on when the engine is off and heat soak sets in and temps get to ~225. THE fan will run for up to 20 minutes trying to cool the engine.
So again, IMHO I am not with a blown HG - compression is good, the test for exhaust gases in the coolant came up negative.
So, keep an eye on the coolant level. Find the leak, fix it. Remove the "hard wire" on the fan and get it back to factory/OE. Properly bleed the system. Verify that Thermo A is of the proper spec.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dougiefresh
Audio/Visual Electronics
8
08-24-2011 12:39 PM
SRG07
General Tech Help
8
02-09-2007 01:25 PM
