Hi,

I have a 94 accord coupe lx manual shift.

I have an intermittent start issue usually after car warms up. Car wont crank over. No solenoid click either. Starter has been swapped out numerous times with champion reman. Engine grounds are excellent. 12v present at starter signal terminal when disconnected and 8v when connected. Main relay has been replaced even though un related. Battery is new. All electrical connections are clean. The starter relay behind the ash tray has been replaced as well as the ignition key switch. The only way i can start it when this occurs is to jump the battery + terminal directly to the starter signal terminal.

What gives? Could there be a faulty alarm starter interrupt solenoid circuit giving problems?

Thanks

Paul k

 

See my post #5 in this other thread:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...02/#post325906

 

There should be power at the Blu/Red wire that connects to the clutch interlock switch when the ignition is in START (III).

Also check under-dash fuse no. 9 (7.5A).

 

I have jumped the interlock switch when the problem occurs with negative results. Switch seems fine. Note that there is voltage (12v) at the signal wire at the starter when disconnected (no load) at the starter. When you connect it to the starter and try to start the voltage will drop anywhere from 6v to 8v (loaded) with no sound or solenoid clicking or cranking for that matter.

What does the other clutch pedal switch do? The one that stays pressed when the clutch is released? Cruise control disconnect?

P

 

Voltage on Blk/Wht wire at starter solenoid w/ keyswitch at Start should be battery voltage. You either have a weak battery (small solenoid load pulls battery voltage down) or you have resistance in the circuit above the solenoid. If battery is good, the ignition switch is likely source of resistance.

good luck

 

There is only one clutch interlock switch which is integrated into the cruise control system as well. If you are talking about the one with the bolt that is the clutch switch adjusting bolt.

 

I re-read your posts, I would go with TexasHonda post.

You can test the voltage coming from the ignition switch's Blk/Wht wire by backprobing either at the 7-P connector at the ignition switch or the 7-P brown connector that plugs into the under-dash fusebox. --This can test whether the ignition switch is causing the resistance (drop in voltage). (Note: This Blk/Wht wire is a different wire than the Blk/Wht wire that connects to the starter, as the wiring from the ignition switch runs through other components and wires before reaching the starter.)

Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...%5D-t-pins-jpg

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...back-probe-jpg

 

Ah, I have to say this isn't correct. In a 5th gen Accord with a manual trans there are TWO switches on the clutch pedal.

 

Not According to my 95 Accord wagon 5 speed sitting in my driveway or the Honda shop manual. It being a 94 there is the potential of a cross over/carry over in parts from the previous generation.

 

See #11 and #13 in pic. Look up "pedal" on any of the online dealers. I'd scan a picture from the 1995 Sevice Manual book it have but don't feel like getting the scanner out