Hey guys & gals, I joined this forum hoping somebody can point me in the right direction for the problem I'm having.


I have a 95 Accord, EX 4cyl, so it is the SOHC Vtec. This is a stripped down race car I use in a Enduro series at my local circle track.


Now here is what happened, about 1/2 way thru my last 20 lap race, there was an incident ahead of me I didn't see quick enough, I ended up rear ending the car in front of me hard enough to bend the radiator support back and pinching off the top radiator hose causing the car to run very hot. A few laps after the wreck, the engine started cutting out at about 5200 rpm, but I still finished the race, I thought maybe I had blown her up. We have fixed the crash damage, refilled her with water and fired her up, she idled as smooth as always, so I was relieved it was still alive. But, rev her up and at 5200, she cuts out, then comes back on, which is what was happening in the later part of the race. Not like bouncing off the rev limiter at 6250 thou. I reset the ECU as per the factory manual thinking it was in some sort of fail safe mode because of the overheat, but the problem is still there.


I'm hoping one of you Honda Gurus can help me out?

 

Check to see if the collision pulled apart the wiring for the VTEC spool valve, including the wire for the VTEC oil-pressure switch.

But still, I don't think that would cause the engine to cut out. It simply would run out of breath because the other cam profile isn't so good at high RPM.

Another random thought that I can't prove...
Check the VSS is working. Is the speedometer working? I've heard stories about some Accords having a lower rev-limit when the car isn't actually moving. The idea is to prevent revving the engine in neutral too high. The ECU looks at the speedometer signal coming from the VSS to decide if the car is actually driving.

 

The cutting out is a much differn't cut out then bouncing of the rev limiter. The cars on jack stands while we fix some rear suspension damage, so maybe I'll but her in gear and see if the cut out happens with the front wheels rolling, assuming the speedo is driven off the front.


Forgive me, I'm new to Honda's, how would I find the VTEC Spool valve, and the VTEC oil pressure switch? Is this switch different from the normal OP switch?


Also, by VSS you mean Vehicle Speed Sensor I assume?


I'm also going to take a close look at the Dist cap, rotor, and plug wires. All brand new a couple races ago, but maybe the hood smashing in did some damage to those? Thoughts?


And thank you for your advice

 

The vtec pressure switch is near the distributor on the cylinder head.

Is the check engine light turning on while driving? Before going after any parts, check for engine codes. See the common diy thread on top of the gen tech forum to find a link on how to check engine codes on your car.

 

The VSS is the vehicle speed sensor. Follow the lower radiator hose back to the thermostat housing. Way down below the T-stat or below the throttle-body, the VSS is on top of the transmission housing.

The VTEC spool valve is the box #9 in the picture. The picture is a bit misleading, the actual position is on the back side, between the head & intake manifold, near the distributor; look for the triangle flange. That triangle flange is the actuating solenoid. The VTEC oil pressure switch is #13 and it's NOT the same switch that triggers the oil idiot lamp.

Like PA says, a problem with that stuff should cause a CEL.

Cap, rotor, plug wires... as well as the VTEC valve. No specific ideas, but I'm absolutely in favor of checking everything for damage.

 

Jim & PA, thank you for your insight, I now have a list of things to check. I'll get back to you with what I hopefully find.


Again, thank you very much for your help on this.