Hey guys, i'm new and i've looked around the web for some help (and searched previous threads here) but can't seem to pin the problem.
backround - This car is in no means good or excellent, but it works... worked. it's a 4 cyl non-vtec basic sedan
My car started having issues one morning when the engine sounded deeper than normal, I didn't think about it too much, until when I stopped at my destination and it wouldn't start, check engine light and the d4 gear notification on my dash was blinking, I shifted to neutral had a jump and it started, still sounding deep but now fluctuating when im stopped between 1300-300rpm (before any problems it idles around 1300) while moving it was fine, gauges would occasionally go down but car didn't die, I made it to an auto parts store, blamed battery cables being loose and tightened them; started it up and no check engine light or d4 gear light so i went home.

The next morning I start it up and it's rpm was lower than usual but I moved on, then after I stopped at my gas station it started this whole thing up again, check engine d4 until i neutral jumped it pushing on my brake pedal. I made it to the first stop sign at the end of the street before the engine rpm went down and died fully, put in park and tried again, cranking but no turn like the first time, tried jumping it while i neutral and still cranking with no turn; I undo all the battery cables and wipe them down, wipe down terminals and tighten the cables further, and again, check engine turns off, d4 gear light turns off, but the rpm's are too unstable to drive, dropping down to 200 at times; also now there's a very audible popping sound under my feet, seems like it might be in the exhaust pipe near the front and sounds almost like it's backfiring (which I know it's not); happens every 5-10 seconds

what I've tried - I have new spark plugs, new spark plug cables, battery tests good, oil's been changed recently (don't know if that helps), car will start and stay alive if it just idles, only dies when I start driving and stop; I have a non-fouler in spark #1 from previous owner, no clue why and can't take out fearing threads may be messed up; reading most people saying similar things happen with a bad distributor cap/rotor I tested them and all the spark plug cables are sparking, while testing them I noticed a small amount (2-5 drops worth) of what looks like oil over the sealant ring of the #2,3,4 spark plugs - any help or tips are appreciated, I know there's a lot of information here, thank you for reading

Edit: just checked tegger.com under Car cranks, starts, but runs poorly and roughly, then stalls

Honda-specific
Coil - as said in the 2nd part I drove fine initially, then turned off and cooled, then restarted and made it a block, when checking what makes a coil bad they say "in a word, heat", but this is 3 minutes of driving, a 15 minute stop, then another 30 seconds driving

Generic to all cars
* Spark plug wires old and leaky - mine are new and produce spark
* Poor maintenance, neglect, incorrect servicing - yeah but it's been like that for years
Engine flooded with fuel - not sure, will check tomorrow
EGR valve stuck open - oddly enough I replaced this in the last 1 1/2 years because it was stuck open, will re-verify it's still working in the morning
Dirty or oil-soaked spark plugs - new plugs but as I said there is oil residue on the top of the seal ring

 

I'd start by checking engine and transmission codes. There is a link in this thread:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...threads-40780/

 

There's no more check engine light, and it shows nothing when checked, the EGR valve is still working fine, but when I went to do engine flood test I pushed down on the gas all the way, cranked it and it started and rev'd up, which I believe it isn't supposed to do

 

Engine and transmission codes will remain stored even when the engine light is turned off. When you jump the service connector under the glove box, does the CEL turn on and remain on? Does the D4 light start flashing codes?

I wouldn't assume that the clear flood test actually shuts off the injectors. I tried this once on my 95 Accord, and the engine rev'd up high too.

 

When D4 and engine light occur at the same time I typically lean towards a problem with the transmission system either electrical or mechanical as the likely cause, but without pulling the stored codes there is no way to tell. As all ready stated the codes will be stored so you need to pull them. Good luck!