So I'm working on swapping an f23 in my 96 and when I went to swap the flywheel onto the new block I couldn't get the bolts off to take it off the old one. This is my first swap and I'm not super experienced with working with the motor, this swap is more of a learning experience for me than anything. Am I missing something to get these off? I've tried with a breaker bar but as I'm sure you'll guess it spins too easily to get it loose and I've tried an impact and even that won't take it off. If I sprayed some wd40 on there would that help or is it bad for the flywheel? Another question is does anyone know of a location with detailed information for this swap? I've looked around and found a few things but nothing to in depth or complete and I just need to make sure I know everything I need to swap and stuff. I already plan on using the f22 fuel rail and injectors, water pump(or lengthen the hose whichever would be easier) and power steering pump (or just swap the connector from the f23 hose into the f22 hose), dizzy, and if I want to utilize VTEC I'll have to swap ecu's (which I plan on doing in the near future) and wire it and that there's a blow-off valve or something (I'm not completely positive but I have a link to where I read about it I plan on referencing to make it) but other than that is there much I have to worry about changing? 96+ is ob2 if I'm not mistaken? So they both should be ob2 and most of the stuff on these motors are fairly interchangable if I've understood correctly so I wouldn't have much to worry about there other than smaller things. Now I'm not expecting someone to sit here and outline the whole swap for me here but if anyone know any big things I'm missing that I'll have to worry about or somewhere with basic (or maybe even detailed if possible) steps on the swap it would be insanely appreciated

 

A search of the forums might give you more detailed info, as there are a few swaps that have been done.

The 1st question I have to ask though, is the 96 engine that you're swapping out a VTEC engine? If it's not, you'll need to find a 96 VTEC ECU that matches your transmission. I only say that, as the F23 that you're swapping in has VTEC, and the ECU controls it.

Yes, both the 96 F22 and the F23 are set up as OBD2, so some/most of the sensors should work with the ECU, if not, you could use those from the F22 (96 engine), so that the ECU won't notice the change too much. Keep in mind that a 96 F22 uses a FIT valve, while the F23 doesn't. This means you might need to run the F22 intake manifold on the F23 engine. I'm not 100% sure though if the ECU will let the engine run without it (using the F23 intake manifold).

As far as I can tell all of the F22 accessories (pwr steering pump, AC pump) interchange onto the F23 as I have both a 97 and a 99, and they're very similar mounting holes in the block and head appear the same, but with a slightly different mount set up for the power steering pump.
What you might find out (once the F22 is out) is that the F22 engine mounts are in the same location on the F23, and you can/could re-use them (or replace them with new). From what I understand, the F23 block is very similar to the F22 block. The big difference comes from installing the engine into the chassis, as they are differences in the front subframe/engine cradle.

Also, you might try some heat on the bolt heads, as there might be some loctite on them which is making it hard to get them to loosen up. I've ran into that before, so I thought I'd mention it.
I know this isn't a lot of help, but I hope it helps.

P.S. I've only just gotten into Hondas in the last year or so, so I'm still learning as well. But I have spent some time going thru the forum (in the different catagories), and learned a lot of info from the various threads.

 

No, the f22 is non-VTEC but I was planning on getting a new ECU later and swapping it in and wiring g it all up

Thanks for reminding mr, that was another I found that should be changed, but I think it's possible to run without it.

Yea that was the first one I noticed too, and I haven't really tried yet, but I feel like it should still work.

I already have the f23 in the, car I just have to get everything hooked up. It seemed to mount just fine, only snag was that the stud for one of the bolts on a mount (the long one right by the cam gear) is a loot longer on the f23 so I wasn't able to tighten it yet, as even a deep socket is far from deep enough lol so I have a jack under it.

Should I just like hit it with a torch real quick or something bweaker like a hair dryer or sonething? Aha

This was actually a great help!Very much appreciated Toecutter. I'm not sure if I already checked here but I'll have to look around and see if there's some hidden gold I missed here.

 

Yeah, I only mentioned the VTEC versus non-Vtec, as my 97 is a 16 valve (non-VTEC), and I had a hard time finding a spare ECU for a 16 valve, with 5 speed. I did find one though, with the help of car-part.com.

Yup, I know that stud very well, as I've changed timing belts in both my 99, and my wife's 2000, and my socket is just barely long enough to tighten/loosen that nut.

If you have access to an oxy-acet torch use it. You'll want to warm the bolt heads up pretty good (just short of red hot 1st), and then see if they'll come out. You might have to warm them up several times. A propane torch might do the job too, but you'll spend some time warming them up. I had to do that on my wife's car when I was changing the timing belt, as someone used loctite on it rather than oil. Ran into the same thing helping my son do the timing belt on his Civic too, so there are guys out there that use loctite. But, I think the flywheel bolts are loctited, as you definitely don't want them to come loose.

As far as running without the FIT valve, it might throw a code, so keep that in the back of your mind, when you fire it up only to see it glowing at you.

It sounds like you're just replacing the engine itself, but adding VTEC to it while you're in there. I only say that, as you're using the existing systems to run the engine. Just double check your plugs, as some stuff is different between VTEC and non-VTEC like the distributor and coil (some may face opposite of what you need). I found that 1 out the hard way when I was doing a tune up on my 97. Some of the wiring is different as well, as Honda packaged the VTEC differently, moving some of the sensors around (putting some inside the distributor). So you'll be finding yourself re-wiring some items, as you move things around. I'd have to have a look at the wiring diagrams to be able to tell you the differences, as I only know what I've ran into with my 97 Accord.

I only say that, as I drove it home, then spent the next 6 or 7 weeks trying to get it to run again (had no power to the injectors). I ended up getting more of a lesson than I wanted from that debacle.

The best advice I can give you though, is to take your time, and don't get into a rush.