Also, did you try swapping the two relays to see if the windows or sunroof work?

 

Ok I can do that anything about the windows?

 

Yes I tested with volt meter and I'm getting fire

 

For the windows:

At the power window master switch, with the ignition turned ON; with the black lead of the voltmeter touching the metal body/chassis, touch the red lead of the voltmeter to the terminal for the Grn/Wht wire at the harness plug (see pic.) to see if you have voltage coming in.

 

Thanks for your help w ith the fan. I am getting fire to the relays but when I put the relays in nothing happens so I ran a jumper wire from the battery and to the slot the relay hooks into. This worked and I can roll them up and down

 

Thank you so much for all your help. I'm glad I found this forum it has helped me a lot

 

Forgive me; but, some of this will be kind of technical to explain what I think where the actual problem may be.

It may be more trouble than what you're willing to test, find and fix the issue properly instead of jumping power directly to the relay.

From your description where you have to jump a wire from the battery to where the power window relay is, it sounds like power via the Wht/Red wire from the Integrated Control Unit (located in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box is not going to the power window relay in the under-hood fuse/relay box. The Wht/Red wire connected from the integrated control unit goes through connector C253 at the back of the under-hood fuse/relay box to the power window relay.

The way the power window circuit works is when the ignition switch is ON (II) (and for 10 minutes after it is switched to LOCK (0) and as long as both front doors remain closed), the integrated control unit provides voltage to the coil of the power window relay. The contacts of the power window relay close and voltage is applied to the master power window switch and all the window switches in the doors.

You stated you checked fuses and all lights work, etc.; so, it may be a problem with either the integrated control unit, the wiring, or the connection.

 

You're welcome.

 

If you're going to stay with a jumper wire to the power window relay, you may want to add an in-line fuse to the wire to better protect the circuit. As an alternative, you can probably even use an "add-a-circuit" from a fuse slot in the under-hood fuse box that is not always "hot" and is only on when you turn on the ignition.