If you're sure of yourself, can tell right away that you need to move the timing by xx teeth, then go for it. Otherwise, do it like the procedure here.

1. Take off the timing belts directly. Don't spin anything yet, just slip off the belt. You might want to hold the camshaft sprocket, because the valve springs might(?) try to push the camshaft one way or the other.

2. Find the crankshaft timing marks. You want to turn the crank DIRECTLY to a point 90-degrees away from the marks. DO NOT turn through TDC and DO NOT turn through 180-degrees. Even if you have to turn the crank backwards, just go directly to 90-degrees out. Now all 4 pistons are at mid-stroke. Figure out a way to clamp or hold it so you don't turn the crankshaft any further by mistake.

3-OPTIONAL. Go through the motions of checking valve clearances. You can turn the camshaft any way you want because the pistons are all at mid-stroke. Any bent valves should show excessive clearance.

4. Set the camshaft to #1 TDC. Arrow pointing sorta upwards and the dimple-marks lined up to the top of the shroud.

5. Turn the crank DIRECTLY to TDC. Forwards or backwards, but DO NOT turn it through 180-degrees. (Turning it through 180-degrees would bring the wrong 2 pistons up and they might hit their valves.)

6. Now install the timing belt & make sure all the marks line up.

 

That all makes sense, and is basically what I did. I only have a few minutes a day to mess with this right now because of work, but that last thing I need to do is the water pump, and then I can put everything back together and try it. Thanks for all the advice so far.

 

Yeah, installing a new waterpump would happen between #3 & 4 in my list above.

 

It's back together except for the power steering pump. Still not trying to fire on ANY cylinders. The crank sensor code is gone now however. I'm getting a compression tester today to confirm the worst...
Question: on this car, do new valves have to be machined in? If so, I'd be better off just getting a complete rebuilt head I would say. I don't even know where to get something machined if I wanted to rebuilt my own.

 

okay, the compression tester is not showing compression on any cylinders. I wasn't expecting all the valves to be messed up??? That sticky point is gone when I turn it over by hand (now that it is back in time), so that must of been a valve hitting. It actually sounds like it has less compression than when it was out of time, so I'm not sure what is going on here. Looks like I'll be needing a head...

 

I had bent valves on Acura 2.5L IL5 when harmonic balancer came off (too long a tale to recount). There were 3 exhaust valves bent.

I think how quickly engine stops determines amount of valve damage. No reason to expect head damage. Valves can be replaced. But a head inspection for cracks and rebuild (replace bent valves, reseat all valves, new stem seals, shave head)

good luck

 

Right, I can get a rebuilt head, ready to go for $200. I'm guessing that is cheaper than shaving the head and seating the valves???

 

I don't remember what I paid for my 4-cyl, but I think it was $200-$250. Price sounds good if it's a rebuilt head, not a used head.

good luck

 

It will be a week before the parts come in and I have time to work on it. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Finally got time to do the work. Replaced the head with a rebuilt one. It took about 10.5 hrs split between 2 days, including setting the valve clearances. Car started right up, so far so good. Thanks for all the help/advice everyone.