Hang on.....I only brought up the blend door IF the cables needed to be adjusted because they were loose.

As TX said, please check the temp of the hose to the valve, out of the valve and also the "return" out of the heater core. If the lever was stuck and you "freed" it up, it is possible that the "internals" of the valve have broken loose from the lever....meaning the lever moves but does not open the inside and let the hot/warm coolant flow.

I can post the blend door adjustment procedure but it sounds like this is not the issue here.

 

Ah, what the heck.

For a better explanation of the "blend door" let me try this.

There are two cables, one from the **** to a "pivot" arm that also is connected to the "blend" door inside the heater/evap box via the shaft. From the pivot, another cable goes to the heater control valve.

When or why would you need to "adjust" these cables. IF you turn the **** to cool (leave ac off) and can still feel "warm/hot" air coming out of the vents while driving. This means that 1) the "door" is not closing off the heater core and or 2) the adjustment is such that the heater control valve is not closing off all the way.....allowing hot coolant to still kind of flow thru the core....and since the door isn't closing off the heater core side, well warm or hot air comes out.

So, with the AC off, to regulate heat, this door allows some "cool" (outside or interior-depening on the other switch/mode-ever wonder why heat or ac works GREAT on re-circ?) air to pass by the evap side and mix with the heater core side....thus reducing heat. The temp off the heater core is the temp of the coolant, if you don't want it that hot, well the coolant doesn't get colder, the car "mixes" that HOT air with air that is, well "less hot".
In the summer and the AC on and you want the temp warmer than what is coming out of the vents (too cold-so you turn the **** back from max cool), the second cable (pivot to valve) opens the valve a bit and also opens the "door" a bit to allow the heat from the heater core to mix with the COLD air from the evap....thus reduce the temp of the cold air coming off the evap.

So, after a long rant, don't ask. If you are getting "NO HEAT" and the cable on the valve is moving....either the valve is not working, the heater core is clogged or there is not enough coolant - trapped air in the system-air pocket.

 

I wasn't saying to adjust those cable. I was saying to check them out whether they were broken or disconnected.

X2 about the shop manual. The parts drawings I posted don't really show where the cables are attached.

 

Agreed . Wanted to be sure the OP knew that of the cable is moving at the valve, you should be getting "some" heat.
To see this pivot, from the pass side, about where the "console" hump meets the dash, there is a black plastic cover (#3 in second pic posted by Jim) with a push button retainer (#18), pull the retainer and then the cover will snap loose. You will then see the pivot and one end of each cable.

 

If flow and control parts are indeed working you may need to flush the sys, Try this get a bottle of cooling flush then drain the rad. just enough to add the flush run or drive the car at 2500 RPM for a hour or moor drain the rad. and use HONDA coolent and see if tou have heat you may need to do this 2 times I fixed 2 cars this mo. doing just that