97 Accord Starts weird (intermintent power?)
It has the F22b2 (non-vtec) has about 223,xxx. I have replaced - starter, battery, ignition switch, plugs, wires - I also bought a main relay to try and it didnt solve the problem so i took it back. Its only left me stranded once, i jumped it and it sounded the same but it started, it seems like its not getting a steady stream of power when starting. Thanks for any help!
-when you turn the key to the "start" position it acts like it can't get a full stream of power.
almost like the power to the starter is surging, which will cause the starter to grind sometimes, sometimes you turn the key and it does nothing or it will do something for a second then you keep holding it to start and it just quits and you hear silence. its really random.
-when you turn the key to the "start" position it acts like it can't get a full stream of power.
almost like the power to the starter is surging, which will cause the starter to grind sometimes, sometimes you turn the key and it does nothing or it will do something for a second then you keep holding it to start and it just quits and you hear silence. its really random.
This sounds like a problem with the starter or the wiring to the starter.
If you have a volt meter, check that the small wire going to the starter is getting 12V when you go to start the car. You may want to run something like a speaker wire from the small wire to the starter to inside the car. Find a good ground for the other wire. Check that you are getting 12V when it works or does not work.
I would also disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables. Also inspect the battery cables for problems.
If you have a volt meter, check that the small wire going to the starter is getting 12V when you go to start the car. You may want to run something like a speaker wire from the small wire to the starter to inside the car. Find a good ground for the other wire. Check that you are getting 12V when it works or does not work.
I would also disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables. Also inspect the battery cables for problems.
This sounds like a problem with the starter or the wiring to the starter.
If you have a volt meter, check that the small wire going to the starter is getting 12V when you go to start the car. You may want to run something like a speaker wire from the small wire to the starter to inside the car. Find a good ground for the other wire. Check that you are getting 12V when it works or does not work.
I would also disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables. Also inspect the battery cables for problems.
If you have a volt meter, check that the small wire going to the starter is getting 12V when you go to start the car. You may want to run something like a speaker wire from the small wire to the starter to inside the car. Find a good ground for the other wire. Check that you are getting 12V when it works or does not work.
I would also disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables. Also inspect the battery cables for problems.
I haven't used a volt meter to check the wire to the starter, but i have cleaned both cables, and I even made up a positive cable to see if mine had a bad spot. Both cables are clean.
So I just got back from a Honda Mechanic - He put the end of a test light on the ground part of the battery and the test light on that little wire to the starter, in a "no start" condition where the key is held @ start and it does nothing. The light is not lit up, so no power going to that wire. Does anyone have any other ideas what it might be?
Now you're looking at a bad ignition switch (the electrical switch behind the key).
Or some loose or broken wiring between there & the actual starter.
Next part of diagnosis is using that test-light pretty much the same way, but further & further "upstream" on that wire until you find something broken or loose.
Or some loose or broken wiring between there & the actual starter.
Next part of diagnosis is using that test-light pretty much the same way, but further & further "upstream" on that wire until you find something broken or loose.
It's an automatic
Ignition switch has been replaced
Now you're looking at a bad ignition switch (the electrical switch behind the key).
Or some loose or broken wiring between there & the actual starter.
Next part of diagnosis is using that test-light pretty much the same way, but further & further "upstream" on that wire until you find something broken or loose.
Or some loose or broken wiring between there & the actual starter.
Next part of diagnosis is using that test-light pretty much the same way, but further & further "upstream" on that wire until you find something broken or loose.
The gear position switch is between the ignition switch and the starter in the wiring. Remove the center console. Check that the pins on the gear position switch that have the wht/red and blk/wht wires are a closed circuit when the gear changer is in park or neutral.
You can also check that wht/red wire at the harness for voltage when your turn the key to start the car.
You can also check that wht/red wire at the harness for voltage when your turn the key to start the car.
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